'!'|!'li I 







Class 



T^ !\r^.n 



Rnnlc ljO> 
Copyright ]^° 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSnV 



SHORT METHODS 



A TREATISE ON 



Cutting, Designing &f Manufacturing 

MEN'S CLOTHING 



WITH COMPREHENSIVE DRAFTS OF 

Coats, Vests, Overcoats, Trousers, Knickerbockers, 

Knee Pants, Overalls, Jackets, Shirts, Drawers, 

and Leggins; Grading Systems for each; 

Practical Layouts, Factory^ Systems, 

Time-Keeping Systems, etc., etc. 




PUBLISHED ONLY BY 
THE CHARLES PUBLISHING CO. 

CHARLOTTE, N. C. 
Copyright mi. 



SHORT METHODS. 



IXTRODICTORY. y\ ^ 

"Short Methods" is strictly. a Manufacturers Book. 

The drafts are especially designed for the Manufacturing Gutter, 
not that they are in any way deficient in fitting points or in any way 
unsuited for Merchant Tailors and Custom Cutters, but that they are so 
simple in their construction points, and therefore easily mastered by 
the army of young cutters that are constantly being trained up in the 
trade, and that they are backed up by the proportions and other infor- 
mation not needed by Tailors but absolutely essential to the Manu- 
facturing Cutter. 

The requirements of the Merchant Tailor and the Manufacturing 
Cutter are not identical. Th Merchant Tailor cuts to measure, the 
Manufacturer to proportion. The one sees and measures his subject, 
the other must provide for his requirements in the abstract, and while 
the Merchant Tailor has more peculiarities of form to contend with, 
perhaps, he is not required to exercise the same economy of time, 
labor, and materials, his seams are protected by basting before sewing, 
and he experiences none of the diflficulties of make-up which must 
attend the manufacture of garments on a large scale. 

That too small a percentage of cutters in the trade are draftsmen 
is well recognized. The necessary education is hard to obtain. 

To those who can spare the time and means to attend the various 
schools of cutting, a higher rate of tuition is charged than to Merchant 
Tailors, while existing books on the subject omit much of the explan- 
atory instruction so essentially necessary to the cutter who aspires to 
a higher education but whose experience has been limited to merely 
mechanical work or to the simpler class of garments. 

To meet this deficiency, to place within the reach of the rank and 
file of Cutters a convenient means of self-instruction, by which they 
may acquire the technical education necessary to their own advance- 
ment and to raise the general standard of efficiency in the trade is the 
aim of this book. 

The drafts are simple, comprehensible, perfect and correct, and 
are produced by the shortest method possible. Both proportions and 
drafts are absolutely reliable and produce perfect fitting garments. 

The P'actory Systems, Time-keeping Systems, Methods of Handling 
Work, etc., are founded on practical experience, are among the best m 
use today, and while intended mainly for the benefit of the inexperi- 
enced, will be found (o contain many points of interest to even the 
seasoned veteran in the trade, and' "every Manufacturer, Superintendeni, 
Cutter or Apprentice who studies 4H6" book diligently will find it wortli 
many times its price. 

THE AUTHOR. 



©CI,A283366 



PART ONE. 



CUTTING. 



SHORT METHODS. 



DRAFTING. 

Drafting requires exactness. A pattern should never be cut in 
haste. Every measurement should be applied and each line drawn as 
though the entire pattern or set of patterns depended upon it alon'\ 
The slightest error may ruin many valuable yards of cloth. 

Again, no set of patterns should be put in use until thoroughly 
tested: that is, one or more garments made from them to see that they 
make up properly. Errors are easily made but are also easily corrected 
if corrected in time. 

The seam edges should be measured and compared to see that the 
garment will join up properly. On some classes of work one seam edge 
should be longer than the other. A seam to be joined on a Union 
Special Felling machine or similar machine should be from one-eighth 
to one-quarter inch longer on the under side than on the top to allow 
for the take-up of the feed. For the same reason a bias seam edge 
that is to be joined to a straight one should be cut from one-eighth to 
one-quarter inch shorter because the bias edge will stretch. 

A like principle applies to the different weight fabrics. A thick 
corduroy requires much more allowance for make-up than a light 
weight serge or worsted. These sliould not be cut from the same pat- 
tern. There should be at least one-half inch difference between them 
to insure the same results. Generally, corduroys are cut on a much 
larger scale than the lighter weight fabrics. 

Careful attention to these little points at the proper time will avoid 
many difficulties in regard to twisted garments and short sizes. 



SHORT METHODS. 



THE SQUARE. 

The Tailor's Square is indispensable in drafting. The average seat 
and breast measure ranges from 24 to 50, and these measurements are 
properly proportioned on the square. On the short side are given the 
halves, fourths, eights, sixteenths, and thirty-seconds. On the long sid;3 
are divisions of two-thirds, thirds, sixths, twelfths, and twenty-fourths. 
These proportions are constantly used in drafting and one should thor- 
oughly understand the use of the square to draft correctly. 

Of course in emergencies one may draft without it, but it is not 
advisable when it can be avoided. When necessary this is accomplished 
by using a scale. A strip of paper will suffice, and for 36 seat or breast 
should be cut 9 inches long; for 38, 91/2; for 40, 10 inches, and so on. 

Fold this strip in the center and notch as shown in the accompany- 
ing sketch, which gives one-fourth, fold it again and you have an 
eighth, fold it again and you have a sixteenth, again and you have a 
thirty-second. In the same manner notch the other side for thirds, 
sixths, twelfths and twenty-fourths. This will give a very satisfactory 
scale for use in the absence of a square. 

For a square line as a starting point if no square is available 
describe two perfect circles as shown in sketch, one having its center 
in the circumference of the other. Draw a straight line through the 
intersection of the two circumferences, and the other way through the 
two centers and you have a square line to start from. 

A tape measure should not be used for applying measures in draft- 
ing as they are too flexible and uncertain. 




H4\^ 



..Stk 



jq'tvJ 



SHORT METHODS. 



COATS. 

The drafts as shown are made ahnost entirely by divisions of the 
breast measure and while it is doubtless the simplest system known, 
it is second to none in fitting points for proportionate sizes, and with 
proper use it is equally as good for disproportionate forms. 

The measures needed therefore are only the breast measure, waist 
measure, length, waist length and sleeve length. 

The construction lines are the same for all stylos of coats, the dif- 
ference being in the location of the seams, which of course is governed 
mainly 1 y style, and in allowance or extra fullness. 

Duck or covert conts should be drafted by one inch larger breast 
measure. For a 36 size> draft by 37, etc. Overcoats by 2 inches larger, 
38 being used as the drafting power for a 36 size, allowing also 2V. 
inches for make-up instead of 2 as in the sack. In cutting duck or 
covert coats, overall jackets, etc., to be joined on a two needle felling 
machine, the overlapping parts, such as the shoulder seam and side 
seam of the fore part should be cut a trifle shorter than the same seams 
in the back. Lined coverts should be cut the same as overcoats. It 
will be observed that some difference is made in the method of drafting 
between the large or fat men's sizes and the regular, and between the 
boys' sizes and the regular. 

This is necessarily so in all systems because of the differences in 
proportion. Boys require a greater front shoulder height than adults, 
hence the height of the front shoulder point must be increased as the 
breast sizes decrease. The method of obtaining the proportionate in- 
crease required as explained under the caption of Boys' Sacks will be 
found simple and accurate. 

By the same principle the depth of scye or the back height from 
the breast line to the collar is relatively less for large fat men than m 
the regular, and must be provided for in every system. 

The provisions made for these differences in this system will not 
only be found simple and practical, but as accurate as the best. 

'I'iie allowance for lap at the front is for single breasted sacks, 
11/2 inches; boys' single breasted, 1 inch; double breasted sacks, 3 to 4 
inches, according to style. 

For single breasted overcoats to button through fi/o inches. 

For lly-front overcoats, 2M inches. 

For double breasted overcoats, 3V2 to 4 inches, according to style. 



SHORT METHODS. 



THE SYSTEM. 

The strong features of this system are simplicity and accuracy. 
In most systems the methods of providing for the graduate increase ai 
the heighth of hack, and the location of the front shoulder point are 
complicated, requiring considerable deviation from the regular sys- 
tem for obtaining these points for the sizes above 42 and below 32. 

That some difference is necessary is obvious, lor boys during the 
years of physical development require a higher front shoulder or a 
relatively less back height, and by the same rule short, thick men or 
corpuleni forms require proportionately higher shoulder points than 
is necessary for the regular forms. 

The method of providing for the decrease in back height and in- 
crease in front shoulder height in this system will be found both simple 
and accurate. The back height is regulated in the following manner: 

A is the starting point in the draft, and the breast line "D" is V2 
breast (on division) below A for all sizes. 

Now for the back height place the square with point 16 on scale of 
12ths at A and mark on the scale at the figures corresponding with the 
breast size. If the breast size is 40, mark at 20; if breast size is 44, mark 
at 22; if the breast size is 24, mark at 12, etc. The point thus obtained 
will be the top of back (B), or the top construction line. For all sizes 
above 32 breast this point "(B) will be below A. For all sizes below 32 
breast this point (B) will be above A. In other words A is the top of 
back for 32 breast, and all sizes above 32 come below A, while all sizes 
under 32 come above A. 

Bear in mind that for all sizes the breast line is V2 breast (on division) 
from A, not from B. 



10 SHORT METHODS. 



HEIGHT OF FRONT SHOULDER. 

As has been stated, there is some difference in the height of the 
front shoulder point between the boys' sizes (below 32) and the regular 
sizes, and between the large sizes (above 42), and the regular sizes 
(32 to 42 breast) . 

This is provided for in the following manner: 

Line B is the top construction line and gives the correct front 
shoulder height for all sizes from 32 to 42 breast measure inclusive. 

Large Sizes: 42 Breast up — For the large sizes go up from B 1 inch 
to the star, and square across. Star to 2 is iSV-t inches for all sizes. 
2 diagonally down to 3 is 2 inches. Draw a line from 3 up through 2. 
This gives a graduate line for the increase in shoulder height, which is 
obtained in the usual manner by squaring up from the point on th^. 
breast line. 

Boys' Sizes: 24 to 32 — B to the star is 1 inch, the same as for large 
sizes. Square across from the star lOVl inches to 2. 2 to 3 is 3V2 inches 
(diagonally). Draw a line from 2 to 3.. This forms a graduate line for 
the increase of shoulder height, the shoulder point on this line being 
determined by the intersection of the line squared up from the breast 
line. 



THE FRAME WORK. 



12 SHORT METHODS. 



THE FRAME WORK. 

The plate shows the frame work for the three drafts, regular sizes, 
corpulent sizes, and boys' sizes. 
Diagram 1 is for a 36 breast. 
Diagram 2 for a 48 breast. 
Diagram 3 for a 24 breast. 

DIAGRAM 1. 

Draw the construction line A-E (E is at the waist line). 

Place the square with point 16 on the scale of 12ths at A, and mark 
at 18 on same scale for point B, this being a 36 size. 

A to D is 1/2 breast (on division). 

C is half way from B to D. 

B to E is natural waist, 17 inches (or ^4 height"). 

Square lines B, C, D and E. 

D to G is 1-3 breast. G to H is 1% inches, for all sizes below^ 42. 

H to I is Vi breast plus Vi inch. 

I to J is Ys breast plus % inch. 

D to K is V2 of full breast, 18 inches. 

K to L is 2 inches. 

L to M is 1% inches. 

Square down from G and up from H, I and J. This establishes 
P and S. 

D to N is Vs breast. 

Place the angle of the square at B with the long arm resting on N 
and square out from A to % breast plus % inch. 

H to R and P to Q is 11/2 inches. 

Square out from Q and R % to Vi inch. 

S to U is Vs breast. 

Square out from U VI breast to V. 

Square down from M. 

M to W is 2-3 breast. W to X is 1 inch. 

The line M-X is for the run of the front. 

E to 8 is V2 inch. 3 to 4 is 1% inch. 

DIAGRAM 2 

Draw the line A-D. 

Place the square with point 16 on scale of 12ths at A, and mark at 
24 on same scale for point B, this being a 48 size. 

A to D is V2 breast (on division). 

C is half way between B and D. 

Square across from B, C, and D. 

D to G is 1-3 breast. G to H is 1% inches, for all sizes above 42 
breast. 



SHORT METHODS. 



13 




f z ^ ^ i 



DIAGRAM 4. 



DIAGRAM 3. 



Diagrams 1-2-3- i. 



14 SHOKT METHODS. 



The next two measurements must also be reduced on large sizes 
and should be reduced l-16th inch for each size above 42 breast. 
The measurement for 42 breast for these points is: 
P'or front of scye— ^/i breast plus V^ inch. 
For front shoulder— Vs breast plus % inch. 
Above 42 breast these measurements should be: 

Front of Scye. Front of Shoulder. 

44 Breast % Breast plus Vs inch. Vs Breast plus % inch. 

46 Breas! Vi Breast only. % Breast only. 

48 Breast Vi Breast less % inch. y^- Breast less Vs inch. 

50 Breast ^4 Breast less Vi inch. Vs Breast less % inch. 

52 Breast Vi Breast less % inch. Vh Breast less % inch. 

For Ihis draft therefore H to T is Vi breast less Vs inch, and I to T 
is Vs breast less Vs inch. 

Square down from G, and up from H, I and J. 

P to K is is V2 brenst. 

K to L is 2 inches. 

L to M is IV2 inches. Square down from M. 

D to N is Vs breast. 

Place the angle of the square at B and square up to Vs breast 
plus V2 inch. 

We now come to the difference in front shoulder height, which is 
obtained in the following manner: 

B up to the star is 1 inch. Square across from the star. 

From the star to 2 is iSVt inches for all sizes above 42. 

2 to 3 diagonally is 2 inches. 

Draw a line from 3 up through 2. 

The point at which this line crosses the line squared up from J 
forms the front shoulder point S. 

S to V is Vs breast. 

Square forward from U % breast to V. 

DIAGRAM 3. 

Draw the construction line A-D. 

Place the square with point 16 on scale of 12ths at A and mark at 
12 on same scale for point B, this being a 24 size. 

Note — It will be obsci'vcd that point B for this size is con- 
siderably above A, wiiile foi' the i8 size it is very much below 
A. The breasi line, however, is always located V2 breast below A. 
A to D is Vi breast. 
C is half way between B and D. 
Square across from B, C, and D. 
D to G is 1-3 breast. G to H is IVi inches. 
H to 1 is V-i breast plus Vt inch. 



SHORT METHODS. 15 



1 to J is % breast plus Vi inch. 

Square down from G and up from H, I, and J. 

D to K is one-half of full breast. 

K to L is 2 inches. 

L to M is 1% inches. Square down from M. 

D to N is Vs breast. 

Place the angle of the square at B and square up to Vs breast 
plus % inch. 

For the difference in front shoulder height we proceed as follows: 

B to the star is 1 inch. Square across from the star the same as 
for large sizes. 

From the star to 2 is IQi/i inches for all sizes below 32 breast. 

2 to 3 is 3^2 inches (diagonally). 
Draw a line from 3 to 2. 

The shoulder point S is located on this line at the intersection of 
the line squared up from J. 

S to U is Vs breast. 

Square out from U % breast to V. 

By the line 2-3 it will be observed that the front shoulder height 
increases as the breast size decreases. Point 3 is the shoulder point 
for a 32 breast. Point 2 for a 24 breast. 

DIAGRAM 4. 

Diagram 4 is intended merely to emphasize the relative positions 
of points A and B for the different sizes. 

The heavy double line represents the construction line upon which 
are delineated the various points as indicated on the scale of 12ths on 
the square. 

A forms the top of back or top construction line for a 32 breast, 
but for all other sizes A is simply the starting point in the draft and 
the top construction line B is above A for all sizes below 32 breast, and 
below A for all sizes above 32 breast. 

PROPORTIONS. 

Tn this system almost all measurements are provided for by divis- 
ions of of the breast measure, hence the only measurements needed, 
are the breast measure, the waist measure, the length and sleeve length, 
and as these are all explained in the gradmg system no table of propor- 
tion is given for coats. 



16 SHOHT METHODS. 



SACK COATS— SIZES 32 TO 42. 
DIAGRAM 5. 

Diagram 5 is for a sack coat, either single or double breasted. 
The size tor this draft is 36 breast, length 31. 

To Draft: 

Draw the construction line A-F. 

Place the square with point 16 at A and mark at 18 for top of 
back line B. 

A to D is V2 breast. G is half way between B and D. 

B to E is natural waist, 17 inches. 

B to F is full length, 31 inches. 

Square lines B, C, D, E, and F. 

B to G is 1-3 Breast. G to H is IVi inches. 

H to I is Vi breast plus M inch. 

I to J is Vs breast plus % inch. 

Square down from G and up from H, I and J. 

B to K is one half full breast, K to L is 2 inches, and L to M is 1^ 
inches. Square down from M. 

D to N is Vs breast. 

Square out from B by N Vs breast plus V2 inch. 

H to R and P to Q is I1/2 inches. 

Square out from R and Q Mi inch and draw a line from O to Q. 

E to 2 is V2 inch. Shape the back as represented. 

Draw a line from S to Q, and make S to T the same as to Q. 

S to U is % breast. Square forward from U. 

U to V is % breast. 

Shape the gorge from S to V. 

M to W is 2-3 breast and W to X is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from M through W for the front line. 

Y lo Y is the same as L to M or 1% inches. 

Shape the front and finish. 

P'or the under arm cut Z is half way between H and I and point 1 
is 1 inch fi-om *. 

Draw a line from 1 through Z and take out % inch for the under 
arm cut at the waist line. 

ir the under arm cut is omitted reduce the forepart at point 12 
one-liair inch as shown by the dotted line. 

Tlie i)ultoiis are jjlaced on line V, L, 5, as indicated. 

Vol- a military jacket the under arm cut may be extended to the 
bottom following flic same line. 

The suppression at the waist fi-om 3 to 'i is 1% inches. 

For the pockris poinl (; is 1-12 breast from J. 

Square down Ifom (j to 7. 



SHORT METHODS. 



11L_ 




Diagram 5. 



18 SHORT METHODS. 



The lower pocket is usually 8^^ to 9 inches from the bottom, the 
ticket pocket S^^ inches above it, with the upper pocket just below the 
breast line. 

DOUBI.E BREASTED SACK. 

The front line for the double breasted sack is shown by the dotted 
line V, 13, 8, 9, 11 — otherwise the draft is the same. 

For this style point L to 8 is 5 inches more or less according to 
style; squaring down from 8 to W and thence to X by the same method 
as from M in the draft proper. 

The lapel at point 13 may be made any width desired, but for this 
draft is 2% inches. 

The buttons are placed on line 10, four and one-half inches from the 
edge or li/l> times the distance from L to 8. 



SHORT METHODS. 19 



VARIATIONS. 



The following diagrams, 6 and 7, give the variations necessary I'ui' 
large or corpulent forms (above 42 breast), and for boys sizes (below 
32 breast). 

As there is no difference in the draft below the breast line, only 
that portion of the draft above the breast line is shown, and all points 
below the breast line are obtained as shown in diagram 5. 



20 SHORT METHODS. 



LAHGE OR CORPULENT FORMS— SIZES ABOVE 42 BREAST. 

DIAGRAM 6. 

The size used for this draft is a 44 breast. 

Draw the construction line A-D, the diagram merely showing that 
portion of the draft from the breast line up. All points below th<' 
breast line are obtained the same as in diagram 5. 

With point 16 (scale of 12t.hs) at A mark at 22 for top of back B. 

G is half way between B and D. 

Square.JSi..haJf.i>way* between B and D. 

Square lines B, C, and D. Also E and F, as in diagram 5. 

D to G is 1-3 breast. G to H is 1% inches. 

H to I is 1/4 breast plus % inch. 

T to J is Vs breast plus Vs inch. 

Square down from G and up from H, I, and J. 

D to K is one-half full breast, 22 inches. 

K to L is 2 inches and L to M is 1^^ inches. 

Square down from M. 

D to N is Vs breast. 

Square out from B by N % breast plus % inch to 0. 

H to R and P to Q is l^^ inches. 

Square out from R and Q % inch. 

From B up to the star is 1 inch. Square across from the star. 

From the star to 2 is iSVi inches. 

2 to 3 diagonally is 2 inches. The intersection of this line witli 
the line squared up from J establishes the shoulder point S. 

S to U is Vs breast. 

Square forward to V. U to V is % breast. 

Finish as represented, obtaining all points below the breast line the 
same as in diagram 5. 



SHORT METHODS. 



21 




22 SHORT METHODS. 



BOYS' SACKS— SIZES 24 to 32 BREAST. 
DIAGRAM 7. 

The size for for this draft is 26 breast. 
Draw the construction line A-D. 

With point 16 (scale of 12ths) at A mark at 13 for top construction 
line B. 

A to D is V2 breast. 

C is half way between B and D. 

Square lines B, C, and D. Also E and F, as in diagram 5. 

D to G is 1-3 breast. G to H is 1^4 inches. 

H to I is Vi breast plus li inch. 

1 to J is Vs breast plus V-t inch. 

Square down from G and up from H, I, and J. 

D to K is V2 full breast, K to L is 2 inches and L to M is 1% inches. 
Some prefer to make the button stand for boys only 1 inch, in 
which case make K to L 2i/^ inches and L to M 1 inch. 
Square down from M. 
D to N is Vs breast. 

Square out from B by N Vs breast plus V2 inch to 0. 
H to R and P to Q is 1% inches. Draw line from O to Q. 
B to the star is 1 inch. Square out from the star. 
From the star to 2 is 10% inches. 

2 to 3 diagonally is 3% inches. Draw a line from 2 to 3. The inter- 
section of this line with the line squared up from J establishes the 
shoulder point S. 

S to V is Vs breast. Square forward to V. 

U to V is 1/4 breast. 

All other points are obtained the same as in diagram 5. 

Finish as represented. 



SHORT METHODS. 



23 




24 SHORT METHODS. 



THE OVERCOAT. 
DIAGRAM 8. 

The draft is the same as for the under sack except that 2 inches is 
added to the breast measure for drafting power, and 2% inches allowed 
for seams (from K to h) instead of 2 inches, as in the under sack. 

This draft being for a 36 size, we draft by 38. 

Draw the construction line A-F. 

With point 16 (scale of 12ths) at A mark at 19 for the top construc- 
tion line B. 

A to D is % breast. 

C is half way between B and D. 

B to E is natural waist. 17 inches, and B to F is full length, iO 
inches. 

Square lines B. C, D, E, and F. 

D to G is J -3 breast. G to H is I14 inches. 

H to I is Vi breast plus i/i inch. 

I to J is Vs breast plus % inch. 

Square down from G and up from H, I, and J. 

D to K is one-half breast, K to L is 2V2 inches, and L to M is 11,2 
inches. Square down from M. 

D to N is Vs breast. 

Square out from A by N % breast plus V2 inch to 0. 

H to R and P to Q is IVo inches. Draw a line from O to Q. 

E to 2 is 1/2 inch. 

Shape the back as represented. 

Draw a line from S to Q and make S to T the same as to Q. 

S to U is Vs breast. Square forward from U. 

U to V is 1/4 breast. 

Shape the gorge from S to V. 

M to W is 2-3 breast and W to X is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from M through X for the front line. 

V to Y is the same as L to M or I1/2 inches. 

The under arm cut is located the same as in diagram 5 for the 
under sack. 

Finish as represented, making 3 to 4, 1% inches. 

For the pockets, 6 is 1-12 breast from J. 

Square down from 6. 

7 is Vi breast below the waist line. 



SHORT METHODS. 



25 



£. A 




Diagram 8. 



26 SHORT METHODS. 



THE SLEEVE. 
DIAGRAM 9. 

This is a combination diagram representing three diflferent styles 
of sleeves: 

1. The ordinary two piece sleeve. 

2. The two piece sleeve with the narrow under arm piece. 

3. The one piece sleeve. 

The sleeve is drafted by the size of the scye. 

Measure the armhole carefully from T to Q, deduct V2 inch and the 
balance, which for this draft is 18, is the working power. 

Square lines A-C and A-D. 

A to B is 1-6 scye plus 7-8 inch. 

A to C is the length, 24 inches. 

A to D is % scye (for this draft 9 inches or 18 on halves) . 

Square out from B and C and down from D. 

This establishes E and F. 

B to G is 1-6 scye plus % inch. 

D to J is Vs scye. 

Sweep from A pivoting at G. 

Shape the top of the outside sleeve touching the top of sweep and 
curving downward through J to E. 

F to L is 1% inch. 

L to K is the width at wrist or 6Vi inches. 

Shape the remainder of the outside sleeve from A to K and L to F 
rounding out at elbow M> to 1 inch and hollowing the inseam from E to L 
the same amount. 

A to I is 1% inches. 

E to H is Vo inch. Square out from H. 

Shape the under arm sleeve as represented, touching the H line 
about 1% inches from E. 

For the Narrow Under Ann Piece: 

Square each way from H and extend the line C-F. 
H to 1 and H to 2 is 1 inch. 
F to 3 and F to 4 is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from 1 to 3 and 2 to 4. 

The inseam line of the under arm piece is n^presented by the light 
double line l-Z. 

That (if Ihe outside sleeve by the paneled line 2-Z. 

THE ONE PIECE SLEEVE. 

All points are (ihlaiiied in Ihe usual way and liie lines laid the same 
as for the oi'dinary two piece sleeve except thai the curved line E-X-L 
is omitted and the paper is folded on the straiglit line D-F. 



SHORT METHODS. 




Diagram 9. 



28 SHORT METHODS. 



THE AUTOMOBILE COAT. 
DIAGRAM 10. 

Automobile Coats are being included in the lines of many up-to- 
date manufacturers, and as they are made from diverse fabrics their 
manufacture is not confined to the regular suit houses alone. 

Especially is this true of coats for summer wear and early fall 
and spring, as they are made from Khaki and similar fabrics. 

The coat shown in the accompanying diagram, however, is one of 
the latest designs, and is made chiefly from a heavy woolen fabric 
known as Irish fleece, with raglan sleeves, and very loose, and the 
sleeves rather large. 

The depth of scye for this coat is made full V2 breast from top of 
back line. 

To Draft: 

Square lines A-F and A-U. 

A to B is % breast; to C % breast; to D Vs breast; to E is natural 
waist, 17 inches; to F is full length, 40 inches. 

Square lines B, C, D, E, and F. 

B to G is 1-3 breast plus Wi inches. 

B to H is one-half breast (on division). 

B to I is 2-3 breast. 

Square up from G and I and up and down from H. 

B to N is Vs breast. 

With the angle of the square at A and the arm on N square back 
from A and make A to % breast plus % inch. 

Draw a line from to P. 

F to 4 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from A to 4 for center of back. 

The line A-4 goes to the fold of the cloth. If a seam is desired in 
the back it must be added. 

* to S is y* breast, and S to T is 1 inch. 

T to U is 1/4 breast. Square down from U. 

U to V is i/s breast. 

Shape the gorge from T to V. 

to O is the same as S to R. 

1 lo 8 is 1 inch. 

J is half way between G and I. 
J down to 9 is 1 inch. 

Shape the back as represented and shape the scye from H to S. 
B lo K is one-half of full lireast. K to L is 3 inches, and L to M is 
2 inches. Square down from M. 

M to W is 2-3 breast. W to X is 1 inch. 
Di'aw a line from M Ihrough X to tlic liottom. 



SHORT METHODS. 



29 




Diagram 10. 



30 SHORT METHODS. 



Square down from X. The run of the front is midway between 
these two lines. 

* to point 1 is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from 1 through H for the side seam of the forepart 
and make H to 2 the same as H to 3. 

J'inish as represented. 

The coat is made to button through and the buttons are placed on 
the line V, L-5. 

I to 10 is Vs breast. Square down from 10. 

10 to 11 is 8 inches and 11 to 12 is 7 inches. 

The pocket may be made as an opening for access to the trouser 
pockets or with a patch pocket inside. 

The collar is drafted as shown in diagram 15, page 33. 

For diagram of sleeve see next page. 

THE SLEEVE. 
DIAGRAM 11. 

The sleeve is a raglan but like the coat is cut very large, and may 
be finished in the ordinary way with a strap to button over at the wrist, 
or cut with a wrist band and the sleeve pleated in on the wrist band, the 
wrist band being small and close fitting, thus obviating the necessity 
for wmd shields. 

The draft is made by twice the distance from 8 to P, which is 
half the scye measure. 

For this draft the scye is 23 inches. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 1-3 scye plus 7-8 inch. A to C is the length. 

I> is half way between B and G. 

A to E is % scye (23 on halves). 

Square out from B, C and D, and down from E. 

This establishes F, H and I. 

B to G is the same as A to B. Square up from G. 

F to J is % inch. 

G to K is 1-6 scye, and K to L is the same as to Q in the coat 
draft. 

H to M is iVi inches. M to N is 7% inches. 

E to O is 1-12 scye. 

I to P is 1-3 scye, and P to Q is 1-6 scye less i/4 inch. 

A to R is 2^4 inches. 

Take the back part of the coat, place the shoulder seam so that 
point O touches at L and P at A and mark along the shoulder seam of 
the back. 

Place the forepart so that point S touches at L and the shoulder 
seam touching at O and mark along the shoulder seam of the front 
from L to ¥. 

Finish as represented. 



SHORT METHODS. 



31 




Diagram 11. 



32 SHOHT VIETHODS. 



A PAGE OF COLLARS. 

On the opposite page are designs of various shapes in collars. 

DIAGRAM 12. 

For Double Breasted Sack — For the ordinary roll draw a straight 
line for the break of the forepart, from the end of the roll B to a point 
i/i inch in advance of the shoulder point, and from A where this line 
crosses the gorge through a point i/4 inch back of the shoulder point. 
1 to 2 is 1% inches and 2 to 3 is li/^ inches more or less according to 
style. Finish as represented. 

DIAGRAM 13. 

For a Single Breasted Coat— Same as above. 
DIAGRAM 14. 

Half Prussian Collar — For roll or closed fronts. 

Draw the break line as for Diagram 12. 

Curve the crease line from V through or near the shoulder point 
and the seam edge to correspond. Make the widths from 1 to 2 and 
1 to 3 the same as Diagram 12. 

DIAGRAM 15. 

Prussian— Curve from A through the shoulder point for the crease 
line. 1 to 2 is Hi to 1% inch. 2 to 3 is any width desired. Curve the 
seam edge to correspond with the crease line. 

Used principally for overcoats. 

DIAGRAM 16. 

Military Collar— Make the edge straight from A to 1. 
Width 1% to 1% according to taste. 

DIAGRAM 17. 

Draft same as 14 except that the width at back is 31/2 inches and 
at lapel 2i/i inches. 



SHORT METHODS. 



33 




34 SHORT METHODS. 



THE VEST. 
DIAGRAM 18. 

The draft is produced from the following measures: 

Breast 36, waist 32, opening 12, front length 25, back length 18V2- 

Square lines A-E and A-M. 

A to B is % breast plus iM inches. 

A to G is 1-6 breast plus 1V4 inches. 

A to D is natural waist, 17 inches. 

A to E is full length or back length. 

F is half way between D and E. 

Square lines B, C, and D. 

B to K is % breast plus 2 inches (20 inches). 

H is half way between B and K. 

H to G and H to I is 1-6 breast. 

K to J is Vs breast. 

Square down from H and up from G, I, and J, establishing L. M, 
and N. 

A to R is 1-6 breast and R to S is % inch, 

L to U is % inch. Draw a line from S to U. 

M to T is i/s breast. Draw a line from T to L and make T to V the 
same as S to U. 

Square down from K and draw a line from M to K. Apply the 
opening length from A to S thence from T to W plus % inch, continuing 
the front length down to P, adding 1 inch. 

Draw a line from T to W and from P to F. 

P to Q is 2 inches, and Q to X is li/4 inches. 

D to 1 IS 1 inch, 1 to Z is V2 waist plus 1 inch, and to Y is the same. 

Finish as represented, extending the collar above T the distance 
from A to S. 



SHORT METHODS. 



35 




Diagram 18. 



36 SHORT METHODS. 



TROUSERS. 

The accompanying schedule of proportions for trousers will be 
found suitable for ordinary work. 

For all sizes above 32, the depth of waist or rise is for a 32 length. 
For long lengths this should be increased, for as the height increases, 
the depth of waist should be increased. 

The measurements as given are for ordinary straight leg trousers, 
and of course can and should be altered to suit the style. 

Peg tops or hip trousers should be cut somewhat shorter. How 
much, depends entirely on the style, but makers of cheap or medium 
prices will And it better to follow moderate lines than to attempt !o 
follow the extremes of style either in short waist, peg tops or tight legs. 

For peg tops draft by 2 inch larger seat measure and V2 inch less 
rise, and a correspondingly large knee and small bottom. 



SHORT METHODS. 



37 



TROUSERS. 

Proportionate Sizes. 
Sizes 25 to 54. 



WAIST 


SEAT 


RISE 


1 
KNEE 


BOTTOM 


LENGTH 


25 


33 


81/2 


leva 


15 


25 


26 


34 


8% 


17 


15 


26 


27 


35 


9 


171/2 


15 


27 


28 


36 


91/4 


18 


151/2 


28 


29 


37 


9y2 


18 V2 


151/2 


29 


30 


38 


9% 


19 


151/2 


30 


31 


39 


10 


191/2 


16 


31 


32 


40 


10% 


20 


16 


32 


33 


41 


10 1/2 


20 


16 


32 


34 


42 


10% 


201/2 


16 1/2 


32 


35 


43 


11 


201/2 


I6IA 


32 


36 


44 


111/4 


21 


16y2 


32 


38 


45 


11% 


21 


161/2 


32 


40 


46 


12 


211/2 


17 


32 


42 


47 


121/4 


211/0 


17 


32 


44 


48 


i2y2 


22 


17 


32 


46 


49 


12% 


22 


17 


32 


48 


50 


13 


221/2 


171/2 


32 


50 


51 


131/4 


221/2 


i7yo 


32 


52 


52 


131/2 


23 


171/2 


32 


54 


53 


133/4 


23 


17 1/2 


32 



38 SHORT METHODS. 



TROUSERS. 
DIAGRAMS 19-20. 

The size for this draft is 34 waist, 42 seat, 2OV2 knee, 161/2 bottom, 
32 length. 

The draft as given is for straight leg trousers, with continuous 
waist band. 

The Fore Part. 

Square lines A-E and A-K. 

A to B is depth of waist or rise, plus 2 inches for waist band, for 
this draft 12% inches. 

B to C is the inside length plus 1/2 inch for make-up, 321/2 inches. 

D is 2 inches less than half way from B to C. ' 
C to E is width of hem at bottom, li/4 inches. 

Square lines B, C, D, and E, and the waist line. 

B to F is 1/2 seat. 

F to G is Vs seat less % inch. G to H is % inch. 

(Removing this i/4 inch from the crotch gives a shorter point which 
is advantageous in cutting and which can bo added to the back. No 
dress is removed from stock patterns). 

A to I is 1-12 seat, and I to K is V2 waist. 

Draw a line from K to F. 

C to L is Vs seat. 

L to M is 1-3 bottom. M to N is ii/^ inches. 

Draw a line from B to L and from H to N. 

This establishes and P. 

Q is half way between and P. Place i/4 knee each way from Q. 

Finish as represented. 

The Back Part. 

Cut out the front place on paper and extend the cross lines at waist, 
fork, knee, and bottom. 

B to R is 1 inch. 

G to S is 11/^ inches. 

P to T and to U is % inches. 

L to V is V2 bottom plus Va inch, and N to W is the same. 

Shape the leg from S to V and R to \V, springing out slightly at 
the bottom. 

S to X is Vh seat. 

J to Y is 1-3 seat. 

Draw a line from X through Y for the run of the seat seam. 

Z to 1 is Vs seat. 

1 to 2 is V2 waist [)lus 2i/. inches for seams. 

Draw a line from 1 to 2. 



SHORT METHODS. 



39 




Diagram 19. 



Diagram 20. 



SHORT METHODS. 



Shape as represented swelling the seat line slightly over the full 
part of the hip and springing out Vt inch at 1. 

Point 3 on the fore part is half way between B and G. 

Point 4 is 3 inches from 2. 

Draw a line from 3 to 4 and make the dart seam 4 inches long. 

The pattern requires about 30 yards per dozen on 28 inch goods 
without piecing. 



4^ 




SHORT METHODS. 41 



FAT MEN'S TROUSERS. 

Sizes above 40 waist. 

As in Coats, the draft for fat men's Trousers is slightly different 
from the regular draft. 

In all corpulent forms the extra fat of course is most prominent 
over the abdomen at the waist line. 

This not only requires an extended front to provide for this extra 
form, but also requires a longer fly seam from the crotch up to the 
waist line in order to bring the waist line straight around the body. 

The amount to be added to the top of the waist at K is as follows: 

40 waist add % inch. 

42 waist add 3-16 inch. 

44 waist add % inch. 

46 waist add 7-16 inch. 

48 waist add V2 inch. 

50 waist add % inch. 

52 waist add 11-16 inch. 

54 w^aist add % inch. 



SHORT METHODS. 



DIAGRAM 21. 

The proportions used for this draft are as follows : 

Waist 46, knee 22, seat 50, bottom 17, rise 13, length 32. 

Commence by squaring lines A-E and A-K. 

A to B is the rise plus 2 inches for waist band, this draft also pro- 
viding the continuous waist band, which of course may always be used 
or omitted. A to B is therefore 15 inches. B to C is the inside length, 
plus % inch. D is 2 inches less than half way from B to C. 

C to E is width of hem at bottom. 

Square lines B, C, D, E and the waist line. 

B to F is V2 seat. F to G is % seat less M inch. 

G to H is 1/^ inch. 

A to I is 1-12 seat. 

T to K is % waist measure (23 on division!. 

Draw a line from K to F. 

C to L is Vs seat. L to M is 1-3 bottom (17 on 3rds) and M to N 
is IVz inches for all sizes. 

Draw a line from H to N and B to L. 

This establishes and P. 

Q is half way between and P. Place % knee each way from (j- 

Shape as represented, going up 7-16 inch from K for the top of the 
fore part, slopmg the line from this point to I and swelling the fly seam 
line a proportionate amount just below K. 

Tlie Back Part. 

Cut out front and extend the cross lines as usual. 
B to R is 1 inch (on very large sizes reduce to %). 
G to S is iV2 inches (on very large sizes reduce to 1% inches). 
P to T and to U is % inch. 

L to V is % bottom plus % inch, and N to W is the same. 
S to X is Vs seat. J to Y is 1-3 seat. Draw a line from X through 
Y. Z to 1 is Vs seat. 

1 to 2 is % waist plus 2% inches. 

Draw a line from 1 to 2. 

Shape as represented, springing out V^ inch at 1. 

Point 3 on the fore part is half way between B and G. 

Point 4 is 4 inches from 2. 

Draw a line from 3 to 4 and make the dart seam 4 inches long. 



SHORT METHODS. 



43 




Diagram 21. 



44 SHORT METHODS. 



PEG TOPS. 
DIAGRAM 22. 

Draft by 2 inches larger seat measure than is given in the schedule 
of proportions and % inch less rise. 

The proportions for this draft are: Waist 32, seat 42, rise 9%, 
knee 23, bottom 16, length 32. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is rise 9% inches. 

B to C is the inside length plus % inch. 

D is 2 inches less than half way from B to C. 

C to E is width of hem at bottom. 

Square lines B, C, D, and E. 

B to F is % seat. 

F to G is Vs seat less i/4inch. 

G to H is % inch. 

Square up from F. This establishes I. 

I to J is % waist. 

B to K is Vo inch. 

C to L is Vs seat. 

L to M is t-3 bottom and M to N is 1% inches. 

Draw a line from K to L and from H to N. 

This establishes and P. Q is half way between. 

If the knee is desired larger or smaller than is obtained by the 
draft place % knee each way from Q. 

Shape the fore part as represented, rounding out well over the hip 
and gradually tapering in to the bottom. 

The Rack Part. 

Extend the cross lines as usual except the waist line. 
K to R is 2 inches and G to S is the same. 

to U and P to T is 1% inches. 

L to V is V2 seat plus % inch, and N to W is the same. 

1 to Y is 1-12 seat. 
S to X is 1-6 seat. 

Draw a line from X through Y for the seat line. 

Y to Z is Vs seat plus % inch. 

Measure the distance from J to K on the fore part and place this 
amount from R to 1. 

Z to 1 is Vi waisi plus 2i/l> inches for seams. 

Shape as represmlcd. I'ounding the out-seam all the way from J 
to U and Inporing in at W. 



SHORT METHODS. 




Diagram 22. 



46 SHORT METHODS. 



The Waist band is 2% inches wide at front and 1% in back, or 
according to fancy. 

2 to 3 is 2% inches and 3 to 4 is % waist. 

The pattern lays well on the stripe and is economical in yardage 
owing to the narrow front, requiring only about 31 yards per dozen on 
28 inch goods for ordinary sizes, without piecing, and is excellent in 
fitting points. 




SHORT METHODS. 



47 



BOYS' KNICKERBOCKERS AND STRAIGHT KNEE PANTS. 

Two drafts are given in each style, one for the larger sizes, em- 
bracing usually sizes 8 to 17 inclusive, which are made with fly and 
suspender buttons, and one for the small sizes, made without fly and 
open on the side, and which include sizes 4 to 8 or 4 to 9 years. 

The Knickerbockers are flnished with a strap and buckle at the 
knee, though the small sizes are frequently flnished with a rubber band 
enclosed in the hem. 



AGE 


WAIST 


SEAT 


OUT 
SIDE 


INSIDE 


RISE 


KNEE 


STRAP 


4 


23 Vo 


30i/> 


14% 


714 


7H 


l.'^. 


12 


5 


24 


31 


151/2 


8 


71/2 


1514 


I2V4 


6 


24% 


311/. 


16 14 


8 14 


8 


151/2 


121/2 


7 


25 


32 


17 


8% 


81/t 


15% 


12% 


8 


26 


33 


18 


91/2 


81C 


16 


13 


9 


27 


3'i 


IP 


lOi/i 


8% 


1 6 14 


1314 


10 


271/0 


341/0 


20 


11 


9 


I61/2 


1.31/2 


11 


28 


35 


21 


11% 


9 '4 


16% 


13% 


12 


28V2 


351/2 


22 


i2y2 


9V2 


17 


14 


13 


29 


36 


23 


131/4 


9% 


171/4 


141/4 


14 


291/2 


361/2 


24 


14 


10 


171/2 


14^ 


15 


30 


37 


25 


14% 


101/4 


17% 


14% 


16 


31 


38 


26 


151/2 


101/2 


18 


15 


17 


'.V> 


.•^9 


27 


I6IA 


10% 


18 


15 



SHORT VIETHODS. 



BOYS' KMCKERBOCKERS. 

Sizes 8 to 17. 

DIAGRAM 2.3. 

Size 8. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is depth of waist or rise, 81/2 inclies. 

A to C is tlie outside length, 18 inches to l^nee. 

C to D is the fold, which is 3 inches for all sizes. 

A to E is 2 inches for waist band. 

Square lines B, C, D and E. 

B to F is % seat, and F to G is % inch. 

F to H is Vs seat. H back to the dot is % inch. 

I is half way between B and H. 

C to M is % inch. 

M to 1 is % knee and 1 to N is % inch. 

A to K is 1-12 seat. 

K to L is % waist. Draw a line from G to L. 

Draw a line from the dot through N and from B through M. 

Finish as represented, curving in at bottom % inch on each side, 
swelling the side seams a little above the knee line and making top of 
waist at L Vi inch above the square line. 

The Back Part. 

Extend the cross lines at waist, fork, knee and bottom. 

B to is 1% inches. 

H to P is 1% inches. 

M to Q and N to R is % inch. 

H to S is 1 inch. 

K to T is Vt seat. Draw a line from S through T. 

T to U is Vs seat less % inch. 

U to V is V2 waist plus 1 inch for seams. 

Square down from V to the waist line and fmish as represented. 

The strap for size 8 should be 12% plus 2% inches for a buckle 
strap, and is cut 1% inches wide. 

There is a special machine, however, made by the Singer Company 
for putting on the knee strap much quicker than the ordinary way, 
and for this the knee strap should be cut 2 inches longer to allow for 
(rimming. For the regular foldor fvu'nished with the machine the 
sti-ap should be 1% inches wide for light weight goods and 1% inches 
wide for very heavy goods, such as corduroys, etc., and the lining 
siiould he 1 \i inches wide. 

JUMORS— DIAGRAM 24. 

The draft is made llic same as for I he sciu'ors except that % inch 
is added at K 011 I he I'oi'c pai'l and Y on llio back pai't, as shown in the 
diagram. 



SHORT :\IETHODS. 



49 




Diagram 23. 




Diagram 24. 



50 SHORT METHODS. 



BOYS' KNEE PANTS. 
DIAGRAM 25. 

Square lines A-D and A-L. 

A to B is the rise. 
B to C is the inside length. 

C to D is the allowance lor hem at bottom, which for this draft Is 
1 inch. 

A to E is 2 inches for waist band. 

Square lines B, G, D, and E. 

B to F is % seat and F to G is % inch. 

F to H is Vs seat. H back to the dot is % inch. 

T is half way between B and H. 

Square down from I. 

J to N and J to M is V-t knee (13 on fourths). 

Draw a line from the dot to N and from B to M. 

A to K is 1-12 seat. K to L is % waist. 

Draw a line from L to G. 

Shape as represented, raising the waist line Vi inch above the 
square line at L. 

The Back Part. 

Extend the cross lines as usual. 

B to O is 1 inch, and H to P is 1 inch. 

N to R is % inch and M to Q is the same. 

H to S is 1 inch. K to T is % seat. Draw a line from S through T. 

T to U is Vs seat less % inch. 

Make U to V % waist plus 1 inch and shape as represented 

JUNIORS— DIAGRAM 26. 

'I'lie di'aft is made the same as for the seniors except that % inci) 
is added at 1\ on the fore part and V on the back as shown in the 
diagram. 



SHORT METHODS. 



51 




Diagram 25. 




Diagram 26. 



52 



SHORT METHODS. 




SHORT METHODS. 53 



SHIRTS. 

The Shirt is known by the size of the collar rather than the breast 
size, but as there is a relative proportion between the size of the collar 
and the breast size, especially for the normal figure, a table of propor- 
tions showing this relation is here given: 



reast. 


Proportions. 


Collar, 


24 




12 


26 




121/2 


28 




13 


30 




131/2 


32 




14 


34 




141/2 


36 




15 


38 




ISVa 


40 




16 


42 




16 1/2 


44 




17 


46 




ITVa 


48 




18 


50 




I81/2 


.52 




19 



54 SHORT METHODS. 



THE SHIRT. 
DIAGRAM 27. 

The shirt is drafted by the breast size. The neck, collar, and collar 
band, by the neck or collar size. The usual size neck or collar for a 36 
breast is 15, which are the sizes used in this draft. 

Commence by squaring lines A-C and A-G. 

A to B is V2 breast plus 1 inch. 

A to X is 1 inch. 

A to E is natural waist, 17 inches; — to C is full length, 36 inche:5. 

Square lines B, X and E. 

A to F is 1-6 neck (15 on 6ths). 

r to the circled point is % breast, and circled point to G is Vs breast. 

Square down from G and draw a line from F to H. 

By this line square up and down from F and up and down from H. 

H to K is 2 inches, and F to L is the same. 

Draw a line from K to L. 

H to J is 1 inch. Draw a line from J to I. 

A to D is 1-3 neck (15 on thirds). 

Shape the neck gorge from A to I and I to D, and the yoke from 
A to L. 

B to M is 1 inch less than V2 breast. 

M to N is 1-6 breast plus % inch. 

Square up from M and down from N. 

Shape the arm hole from J to N. 

O to P is 1 inch. 

Shape the side seam as represented. 

The Back Part. 

D to U is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from U through J and make J to T iVi inches. 

M to \V is 1-12 bi'east, and M to Q is % breast. 

Square down from Q. 

H to S is 1 inch. 

C to V is 1/2 inch. 

Shape the arm hole from T to G and the side seam from Q. making 
the back 1 inch longer than the front. 

The solid lines represent the front. The light doubles lines the yoke. 
The paneled lines the back. 

The extra width on the back from J to T is gathered in on the yoke 
in the center, or distributed evenly across the yoks as may be desired. 

The lines 1-1 indicate respectively the front and back shoulder 
seams for a shirt with a yoke. 



SHORT METHODS. 




Diagram 27. 



56 SHORT METHODS. 



The lines 2-2 indicate the shoulder seams for a shirt without a 
a yoke, which is frequently used on cheap working shirts. In this case 
the back is not extended from J to T. Sometimes where this is used 
a single yoke piece is stitched on the outside of the back part. 

Add nothing for seams. 

THE BOSOM. 

The bosom is almost entirely a matter of style or taste, but the 
lines 3, 4, 5 and 6 indicate the method of cutting. 

I to 6 is 1% inches more or less according to taste. 
J) to 3 is the length, 10 to 15 inches. 

3 to 4 is the width at bottom. 

4 to 5 is 1 inch taken out, in a V, the line 3-5 of the shirt being 
gathered in on the line 3-4 of the bosom. 

THE SLEEVE. 

DIAGRAM 28. 

Square lines 7-8-9. 

7 to 8 is the length, 24 inches. 

7 to 9 is % breast plus 2 inches. 
Square out from 9. 9 to 10 is 2% inches. 

8 to 11 is the width at wrist, for this draft 7 inches. 
Draw a line from 9 to 11. 

II to 12 is 3 inches. Square back from 12 for the opening, which 
should be 5% inches deep from the cuff or wrist band. 

The wrist band should be 10 to 11 inches and the sleeve fullness is 
gathered in near the seam. 

THE CUFF. 

The length is 11% inches from outer end of button holes. 
The width is 2iA to 3i/^ inches, according to fancy. 
The band is % inch wide. 

THE COLLAR. 

Two very popular styles are shown. 

No 1 is a turn down, 11/2 in the back, 1% in front. 

Square lines A-l-B-1. 

A to B is the size of neck, 15 inches. 

C is half way between A and B. Square across from G. 

C to D is 1% inches. 

A to 1 and B to 1 is 3l^ inches. 

G to liie bottom line of the band is Vi inch. 

From A to ttu; end is 1 inch, and from B to the end is IVt inches. 



SHORT METHODS. 



57 




NO 1 




NO 2 



FS 



6 



NO 2 




NO 1 



Diagram 28. 



58 SHORT METHODS. 



Points 2 are % inch from tlie square line. 

Shape as represented, taking out % inch between the collar and 
band at V, 

No 2 is a standing collar, IV2 in the back and 1% in the front. 

Square lines i-4 and apply the length from button holes. 

5 is half way between. 

5 to 6 is 1% inches. 

Hollow the lower edge V-t inch at 5, and the upper % inch at 6, and 
tui'n up the ends Vi inch at each 4. 



* 



SHORT METHODS. 59 



THE OVERALL. 



60 SH015T METHODS. 



A FEW ACCESSORIES. 

On the opposite page are shown a few minor parts of garments, 
with which most all cutters are familiar, but which may be useful to 
the less experienced. 

Diagram 29 — Is a double front for overalls, and is cut generally 
from 7% to 9 inches in width and 26 to 28 or 30 inches in length. The 
pocket stitching should come a little below the bottom of the fly. 

Diagram 30 — Shows a very good design for a miner's overall. The 
knee patch A is cut 14 inches square and is set on flush with the in 
seam of the front with about two-thirds of the patch below the knee 
line. Tlie opening at 2 is a small hemmed opening through which ex- 
celsior or other padding material may be stuffed. The seat patch B is 
cut about the same size as the knee patch except that it is made to fit 
the seat line, and is cut round or square according to fancy. 

Some reduction may be made in yardage in this garment by piecing 
on the line 3-4 and the piece seam is neatly covered by the patch seam. 
The back pocket may also be made in the patch as shown in the sketch, 
which will not only economize in cloth, but in labor as well, and if 
flaps are desired over the pockets they may be inserted in the piece 
seam above the pocket. 

Diagram .31 — Shows another form of seat patch or double seat, 
known as the saddle seat, and which is very good on overalls for 
farmers, loggers, etc. This may also be continued down the in-seam 
of the leg in a 4 inch strip, making an excellent saddle reinforcement. 

Diagram 32 — Shows the method of adding the welt seam to trousers. 
Many good cutters have made an almost fatal mistake in attempting 
to produce the open welt seam. Some, for instance, in attempting to 
produce an half-inch welt add one inch to the front, others add one 
inch to the back, while still others add only one-half inch to the back. 
In either case there is an improper lap at the pocket, and in the latter 
case the result is a twisted garment, and, unless the pattern is cut 
larger than it is intended to make up, it will make up one inch small in 
the seat, because one-half inch is taken from the garment at each hip 
to make the welt seam. 

'J'he proper way is to add % inch (or the width of the welt) to each 
part, both back and front. The seam is then sewed as shown by the 
small dotted line on the back part, and when turned, the welt falls 
into its natural position ready to be stitched down. 

Diagram 33 — Shows a very economical front pocket for trousers or 
overalls. 

To draft — Square lines 1, 2, and 3. 

1 to 2 IS the full width, 14 to 15 inches. 

1 to 3 is the depth, 12 inches. 

Square down from 2 and across from 3, which establishes 4. 

1 to 5 is the width of opening plus IV2 inches, 8 inches in all. 
Square across from 5. 

1 to 7 is 21/s inches. 7 to 8 is Oy^ inches. 



SHORT METHODS. 



61 





/ 


r 


) 

/ 

\ 

/ 


w 


v 


F 


\ 

/ 

\ 

/ 

\ 


w 




F 


■ \ 

/ 




F 


\ayF 
V 


i \ 


F 


F 


^ 


1/ 


w 


w 



Square down from 7 and 8 and finish as represented. 

Diagram -Si^ShoWs the matmer of la>ing same on the cloth, by 
which it will be observed that the pattern fits together perfectly on 
28 inch goods, giving one watch pocket on the side for every two front 
pockets, and the actual waste is represented by the small triangular 
pieces at the end of the watch pocket. The waste therefore is reduced 
to th minimum and if a pocket trimmer (over seamer) is used it merely 
rounds the corners instead of cutting off a large piece, as is frequently 
the case. The pocket also stands well away from the side seam, an 
advantage to the wearer worthy of notice. 



62 SHORT METHODS. 



THE OVERALL. 
DIAGRAM 35-36. 

Waist 36, seat 44, rise lli/L, knee 23, bottom 20, length 32. 

Use the proportions given for trousers. 

Commence by squaring A-C and A-J. 

A to B is the rise. 11 ^/i inches for this draft. 

B to C is the inside length plus % inch. 

G to E is 1 inch for hem. 

D is 2 inches less than half way from B to C, but is seldom used, 
especially where the garment is to be fell seamed on a machine equipped 
with folder, the notches being troublesome in passing through tho 
folder. 

Square lines B, G, D and E. 

B to F is % seat, and F to G is 2 inches. 

Square up from F. This establishes I. 

I to H is % waist plus % inch. 

K is half way between G and B. 

Square down from K. 

This establishes N. 

N to M is Vi bottom, and N to L is the same. 

Draw a line from B to L and shape the out seam from H to B. 

Draw a line from M through G to J. 

Delineate the fly seam line from I to G, and notch in iV2 inches, 
as indicated at G. 

The flap 1-J-G is left on to be used as a fly. On the right fore part 
it is folded back to the line I-F and stitched down, forming a button 
stand. On the left fore part it is turned back at the line I-F, forming 
a fly facing. 

Finish and cut out the front as represented. 

Tlie Back Part. 

Lay the front on paper and extend the cross lines at waist, fork, 
knee and bottom. 

B to R is 1 inch. 

G to S is Vs seat. 

P to T is one inch, and to U is the same. 

M to V is 1 inch, and L to W is the same. 

Draw a straight lino from W through R to Y, and shape the in searo 
from V through T to S. 

Extend the line F-T, making I to X Vs seat. 

Draw a line from X to Y. 

Y to Z is % waist plus 2 inches for seams. 

Draw a lino from Z to G on the foro |»art for I bo run of the seat 
seam. 



SHORT METHODS. 



63 




^ 



^ 



' — r 



L_C 




Diagram 35. 



Diacram 3(i. 



SHORT METHODS. 



The Apron — or Bib. 

Square lines 1, 2 and 3. 

1 to 2 is the width of the fore part from H to I plus % inch. 
(Bear in mind that H to I is % inch more than % waist). 
1 to is the width of band, and 1 to 3 is the heighth, which for this 
draft is 11 inches. 

Square across from 3 and and up from 2 to 6. 

3 to 4 is 1/4 inch, 4 to 5 is width at top. Draw a line from 5 to 6. 

ONE SEAM OVERALL. 
DIAGRAM 37. 

Waist 34, seat 42, rise 11, knee 23, bottom 20. length 32. 

Commence with the line A-B and draft from the bottom. 

B to the double circled point is the inside length plus iVi inches for 
seams and hem. 

Square each way from B. 

B to C is i/o bottom. 

B to D is Vo bottom plus 1 inch for seams. 

B to 1 is Vi bottom, and B to 2 is the same. 

Now sweep from the double circled point to 4, pivoting at 1, and 
from the same point to 7, pivoting at 2. 

From double circled point to 3 is % seat, and from same point lo 
5 is 1/2 seat. 

From 3 to 4 is 2 inches, and from 5 to 6 is 1-12 seat. 

Draw straight line from the double circled point to 4, and from 
same point to 6. 6 to 7 is Vs seat. 

Square up from 3. 

3 to 8 is the rise, 11 inches. 

Square back from 8 to 10. 

8 to 9 is % waist, 81/2 inches, plus 1/2 inch. 

8 to 10 is V2 full waist measure plus 2V2 inches for seams. 

Square up from 10. 

10 to 11 is 1-12 seat. Draw a line from 9 to 11 for the top of the 
back, and from 11 to 6 for the run of the seat seam. 

Draw a line from C through 4 to the waist line. 

The fly notch is inserted in the same manner as in Diagram 35. 

Finish as represented, making 7 to 9 a full quarter inch shorter 
than 4 to C especially if joined on a two needle felling machine, as this 
edge of the pattern lays somewhat bias on the cloth, while the line 
C-4 lays straight with the selvage. 

The fly flap is left on as in Diagram 35. but for economy may be 
cut off, as shown by the paneled line E-C, and a piece sewed on, as 
shown by the light dotted line. 

This is generally done and must be when the bib or apron is cut 
on the overall, which is shown by the extension of the paneled line. 



SHORT METHODS. 



65 




IB 

Diagram 37. 



66 SHORT METHODS. 



The paneled line is % inch from 8. 

From 8 to E, 9 to F, and H to I is 2 inches, or width of band. 

E to G is 9 inches, and G to H is 5 inches. 

JACKETS. 
DIAGRAM 38. 

The better grade Overall Jackets are cut like a coat, the sack coat 
draft shown in Diagram 5 being suitable, using the proportions given foe 
duck coats (1 inch larger breast measure), leaving out the under arm 
cut and making the suppression at the waist 1% inches. 

For the cheaper grades, however, the square jumper is still in use, 
and a suitable draft is herewith given. 

The draft is for a 38 breast, length 30 inches. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is Vo breast plus 1% inches. 

A to C is full length. 

A to D is natural waist. 17 inches. 

Square lines B, G, and D. 

B to I is % breast. 

I to E is 2 inches. 

E to J is Vs breast. 

E to F is % breast. F to G is 3 inches. 

G to H is 2 inches. 

Square up from I and J, and up and down from E, G, and H. 

This establishes K and L. 

A to N is Vs breast plus % inch, and N up to O is % inch. 

L to M is Vs breast plus 1 inch. 

K to P is Vs breast. 

Draw a line from M to P and to P. 

to Q is 1-3 breast plus 1% inches, and M to R is the same. 
L to S is Vi breast. 

Shape as represented. 
G to H is a 2 inch facing cut on which turns back on the line S-G. 

The Sleeve. 

Square lines 1, 2 and 4. 

1 to 2 is the length, 22 to 24 inches. 

1 to 4 is % breast, and 4 to 5 is 2 inches. 

2 to 3 is 5V2 inches. Draw a line from 3 to 5 and finish as repre- 
sented. 

The dotted lino 0-0 shows the usual method of piecing. 
The sleeve is finished with a cuff or wrist band to button over 
like a shirt, usually 1% to 2 inches wide. 

The collar is the same as for a work shirt. 
Draw the line 1-4. 



SHORT METHODS. 



67 





J. 





Diagram 38. 



68 SHORT METHODS. 



Square out from 5 and place V2 the collar length each way from 5 
as at 6 and 7. 

From 6 to 1 and 7 to 4 is the extension for the point which in this 
case is 2 inches. 

1 to 2 and 3 to \ is the width, 31/2 inches, including seams. 

DRAWERS. 

DIAGRAM 39. 

The proportions for the draft are: Waist 32, seat 40, rise 10, length 
32, bottom 9. 

To Draft: 

Fold the paper on the line A-B and commence at the bottom, 
squaring out from B. 
B to 6 is 1/2 bottom. 

1 is half way between B and 6. 
B to C is the inside length. 



Sweet from C, pivoting at 1. 

C to 2 is 1/2 seat. 2 to 3 is Vs seat. 

Draw a line from G to 3, and l)y this line square up from 2. 

2 to 4 is the rise, 10 inches. 
Square back from 4. 

4 to 5 is V2 waist. Shape the front as represented. 

3 to 7 is 1-12 seat. 
7 to 8 is % seat. 

4 to 9 is Vs seat. Draw a line from 9 to 0. 

Apply the waist measure from 4 to 5, and to 10, adding 1 inch fo'^ 
seams. The shaded part from to 5 represents a 1^/4 inch V or pleat 
to be laid in the side. Draw a line from 10 to 8 for the seat line, add ! 
inch from G to 11 and shape as represented. The dotted lino 12-X rep- 
resents a button stand to be added to the front. 



SHORT METHODS. 



69 




Diagram 39. 



70 SHORT METHODS. 



LEGGINGS. 
DIAGRAM 40. 

The size is based on the size of the calf, and run as follows: 

Boys'— 10, U, 12, 13. 

Men's— 14, 15, 16, 17, 18. 

The drafting power is the size of the calf and the draft is as fol- 
lows, size 15: 

Draw the center line A, B, C, D. 

A to B is Vi calf (15 on fourths). 

A to C is the length, IGVi. inches, which includes seams. 

Usually all sizes are made the same length. 

G up to D is 1/4 calf. 

Square each way from A, B, C, and D. 

A to E is 1-3 calf, and E to F is l^^ inches. 

A to G is 1-6 calf, and G to H is % inch. 

Square up from E, and down from F and H. 

This establishes I, J, K, L, and M. 

E to R is Vs calf. Shape the top from H to R. 

Draw straight line from E to L. 

M to N is Vs calf. Shape the front from R to N, as represented. 

I to Q is i/> inch. J to P is 1 inch. M to I is % inch. 

Shape the back from H to and the bottom from O through 1 to N, 

The opening is on the line A-C and a facing of P/^ to 2 inches is 
added to the back part. 



SHORT METHODS. 



71 




Diagram 40. 



SHORT METHODS. 



THIGH LEGGINGS— DIAGRAM 41. 

The principle of construction is the same as for the Loggings in 
Diagram 40, but the seams are laid somewhat differently. 

The draft is for the same size (15) and is as follows: 

Draw the center line A-G extending it upwards from A but using 
A as the starting point in the draft. 

A to B is 1/4 calf, — to G is the length, 16% inches. 

C to D is M calf. Square each way from A, B, G and D. 

A to E is 1-3 calf, and E to F is 11/2 inches. 

A to G is 1-6 calf, and G to H is % inch. 

Square up from E, and down from F and H, extending line H 
upwards to T. 

E to R is 4% inches, and R to U is 1-6 calf. 

Square back from R. This establishes S and T. 

S to W is % inch less than % calf. 

T to V is % inch. Shape the top from V to U through W. 

X to L is Vi inch. Draw line from E to L. 

M to N is 1-12 calf. Shape the front from U to N, curving out 
about M inch at E and R, and in a trifle above L. 

M to Y is Vs calf, and Y to 1 is % inch. 

I to Q is Vi inch, and J to P is % inch. 

Point is 14 inch above K. 

Finish as represented. 



SHORT METHODS. 



73 




Diagram il. 



74 SHORT METHODS. 



GRADING. 

Unquestionably the system which is most valuable to the manufac- 
turing or custom cutter is that which gives correct proportions for the 
average forms of all sizes. 

In this respect especially are existing books on cutting deficient, so 
far as the needs of the manufacturing cutter are concerned, for to him, 
proportionate sizes are a necessity. 

Since the drafts by this system are obtained almost entirely by the 
proportionate division of the breast and seat measures, little more is 
needed, but there are some measurements that are not regulated by the 
breast and seat measures, and these are given in connection with the 
Grading System. 

By a correct grading system the cutter is enabled to prc-duco an 
entire set of patterns of any style from a single pattern of any size, 
regardless of the system by which the original draft was produced. 

The chief advantage of grading lies in the fact that a set of pat- 
terns produced in that manner from one original draft will each have 
the same shape and appearance and a uniform proportionate increase, 
which is not always the case where a draft is made for each size. 

The best size for a model is a 36 coat, and a 30 (waist) trouser, 
grading up for the larger sizes and down for the lesser. 

The grade, however, must be performed by sections. For instance, 
in grading coats, the grade must first be made from 36 up to 42, then 
from 42 up to 48, then above 48, then from 36 down to 32, then from 32 
down to 24, for the simple reason that inasmuch as there is a difference 
in the draft in these various groups of sizes, so also must there be a 
difference in the grade. 



SHORT METHODS. 75 



THE SPACER. 

Before taking up the question of grading in detail, however, we will 
devote our attention to the ingenious little device known as the space.\ 
which if properly understood and used will not only save time, but 
perhaps avoid slight discrepancies in measurement that might after- 
ward prove troublesome. 

The spacer is made by drawing a series of lines from a given start- 
ing point one inch apart to a common center, and, is used to divide the 
space between the model and the largest size into the required number 
of equal parts. 

In the spacer given, however, as an additional convenience, cross 
lines have been made at the correct position on the spacer for six- 
teenths, eighths, sixths, fourths, thirds, halves, two-thirds, and three- 
fourths inches, and for 3-16th, all of which are the measurements most 
commonly used in grading, and the spacer is reproduced in the book in 
correct proportion to permit the use of same if desired. 

While the spacer and the method of making same is familiar to 
most cutters, and particularly to draftsmen, the one here given will 
doubtless be found convenient on frequent occasions, and may be used 
in many ways. 

Patterns may be graded in at least two different ways: First, by 
using two patterns, a large and a small size, in which case the small 
size is placed upon the large one, giving an equal distance between all 
the points, and dividing the distance between the outer and inner 
pattern proportionately by the lines on the spacer, according to the 
number of sizes desired. 

To do this, take a small strip of paper, place it on the patterns, and 
mark at the outer edge or point of both patterns. This gives the width 
between the two. Now place the strip of paper on the spacer with om? 
mark at 0, and move the paper downward tow^ard the point of the spacer 
until the other mark comes on the line representing the number of 
sizes to be graded. 

For instance, in grading coats from 36 to -42, the number of sizes 
would be six. 

O therefore would represent the 36 size and line six the 42. Then 
mark at each intervening line, which will give the correct spacing for 
all sizes from 36 to 42. 

The same rule applies for the spacing on all other patterns. 

The other method is to grade from a single pattern, which, when 
the proper increase for each point is known, is very simple, and is 
perhaps the better method. 

The table on the following page gives the correct rate of increase 
for all sizes of all garments, and when used in connection with the 
spacer on the opposite page, a set of patterns can be produced accur- 
ately, and in less time than in any other way. 



76 



SHORT METHODS. 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 

For Grading. 



SIZES 


COATS 


SLEEVES 


FROM 


GRADE 


Top OF 
Back 


Front 
Shoulder 


Breast 
Line 


Length 
AT Bottom 


Width 
AT Top 


Length at 
Bottom 


36 TO 42 
Grading From 36 


INCREASE 


3 
16 


3 
16 




1 

4 


3 
16 


1 

4 


42 TO 48 
Grading From 42 


INCREASE 


1 
8 


3 
16 




1 
4 


3 
16 


1 
4 


48 UP 
Grading From 48 


INCREASE 


Top of 
Back Only 

1-16 


3 
16 




1 
4 


3 
16 


1 
8 


36 TO 32 
Grading From 36 


DECREASE 


3 
16 


3 
16 


4 


1 
2 


3 
16 


1 
2 


32 TO 24 
OR 17 TO 4 YEARS 
Grading From 32 


DECREASE 


3 
16 


1 
6 


1 
6 


1 
2 


3 
16 


1 
2 



VESTS. 







Top of 

Back 


Front 
Shoulder 


Breast 
Line 


Length AT 
Bottom 






36 TO 42 
Grading From 36 


INCREASE 


3 
16 


3 
16 


1 

4 


1 

4 






42 TO 48 
Grading From 42 


INCREASE 


1 
8 


3 
16 


1 
4 









36 TO 32 
Grading From 36 


DECREASE 


3 

16 


3 
16 


1 
4 


1 

4 






32 To 25 Or 17 To 8 
Grading From 32 


DECREASE 


3 
16 


1 
6 


1 
6 


1 
4 







SIZES 


SHIRTS & JACKETS 


SLEEVES 


FROM 




o^ 
u 

art 

OPQ 


Top of 
Front at 
Opening 


Front 
Shoulder 

Breast 
Line 


rt.5 




H 
O 

w 


36 to 48 

COLLAR 

15 to 18 

Grading From 36 


INCREASE 


1 

4 


1 

s 


1 1 

4 ' 4 


1 

4 


1 
4 





48 to 52 

COLLAR 

18 to 19 

Grading From 48 


INCREASE 


3 
16 


1 

16 


1 ! 1 

4 4 


Frnt2-3 
Side 1-3 
of excess 


3 
16 





36 to 24 

COLLAK 

15 to 12 

Grading From 36 


DECREASE 


1 
4 


3 
16 


1 1 
4 4 


1 

4 


1 

4 


1 

2 



From 36 to 24 Decrease length of skirt one-half inch for each size. 



l''(>r the proport.ioiuilc incrca.';!' (ui ' 
lidcki'i-s, Lrggings, etc., src insi nicli(iis in 



"i-oiiscrs. Ox'i'i-alls. Kiiicko 
I he r(illi.\\iii,i4 cliaiiliT. 




"H 




X 








"51 


o 


o 




H 


?o 


X 


D 


en 


CAl 



SHORT METHODS. 



COATS— DIAGRAM 45. 

For a set of coat patterns draft a 36 size, cut it out and reproduce 
it in the heavy pattern paper, cutting the lines accurately and smoothly, 
taking care that it is well shaped, so that it may be used for shaping 
the remainder of the set. 

Now take the original pattern, lay on paper with the back and 
front well apart, and mark carefully around each, and extend th? 
breast line on each side and the center of back line above and below. 

Point D forms the grading point for the back. Draw a line from 
this point through points 2, 3 and 4. 

Now apply the increase at the top of back, as shown in the table 
on the opposite page, which for this point is 3-16. 

This can best be applied by using a small strip of paper an-l 
obtaining the divisions from the 3-16ths line on the spacer. Th'», 
measurements on a rule or square are so close together that they are 
more or less confusing, especially on divisions of 3-16ths. 

Having obtained the proper divisions on the strip from the spacer, 
apply it to the top of the back and mark for each size from 36 to 42 
above the collar line and from 36 down to 32 below the line. 

As the lines at 2, 3 and 4 are to parallel, apply the same measure- 
ments at these points. Now measure down at bottom Vi inch for each 
size and square across. Extend the line from 4 for the outside or largest 
size do-wn to the intersection with the bottom line of the same size an^] 
draw a line from this intersecting point to the corresponding point on 
the model. This completes the grade for the back. 

Fore Part. 

I^oint A is the grading point for the front and corresponds to point 
I in the draft (see Diagram 5). Draw a line from this point through 
points T), 6, 7, 8, and 9. 

Apply the increase 3-16 for sizes from 36 to 42 at 5, as on the back 
part, and the decrease belov/ 5 for sizes from 36 to 32. 

As points 6, 8, and 9 are to parallel the same measurement is ap- 
plied to them. 

On the breast line measure out M inch for each size, and at bottom 
% inch. 

This completes the fore part, and the grade is now complete from 
32 to 42. 

If sizes larger than 42 or less than 32 are desired, continue the 
grade in the same manner, but applying the measurements given in 
the table for these sizes. 

Above 48 breast the increase on the back part is 1-16 inch for top 
of back only. No increase is made therefore at 2, 3, and 4. 

Tiiis completes the grade, and we now have a perfect chart of all 
the sizes. 



SHORT METHODS. 



79 




Diagram 45. 



80 SHORT METHODS. 



Now lay the chart on paper and prick through at each point for 
the 37 size. Remove the chart, and taking the original model for a 
shaper, outline the pattern from point to point and cut. 

By this method the entire set of patterns when completed will 
have the same shape as the model, the other sizes being produced in 
the same manner. 

THE SLEEVE. 
DIAGRAM 46. 

Draft the sleeve as directed in Diagram 9. 

E and G are the grading points. 

Draw a line from E through A on the outside sleeve. 

Apply the increase, 3-16 inch for each size beyond A for sizes above 
36, and below A for sizes under 36. 

Now draw a line from G to the outside point beyond A. 

On this line measure out from G marking for each size 3-16 tho 
same as beyond A. 

Now' sweep from each point beyond A, using the corresponding 
point near G as a pivot. This gives the proper top line. 

Draw a line from G through K at the bottom and extend the in 
seam line a similar amount below L. 

Apply the increase below K and L on these lines as indicated iu 
the table which is ^,4 inch, and above K and L of course for the smaller 
sizes. 

Shape the outside sleeve line for each size parallel with the model 
or use the grade sheet as a chart and prick through for eacli size, as 
directed for coats. 

The under arm sleeve is obtained in a similar manner. 

Draw a line from E through I. 

The increase beyond I (3-16) is applied on this line. Draw a line 
from G through K and extend the in seam line below L. 

Apply the increase M inch on these lines and shape as represented. 

SHHITS. 

The grading point on the shirt is point B of Ihe draff. See Dia- 
gram 27. 

Draw a line from this point through A. 1.. K. T. Q and S of ll!.> 
back part, and D, T, J, N and P of the fore part. 

A])ply the increase as given in the table, Vi inch a! A on the back 
pai'f. 

Dii|)licate this at L, K, T and O. as all points are itarallid up to 'i8 
breast. 

Beyond i8 the increase is only 3-l() inch, while on Ihe breast line it 
is Vi inch. 

l^Ytr the fore part the increase at Ihe shoulilci' points I and J i? 
Vt inch, ])ut on the front line at D is Vs iin'li. (ui all sizes from 36 to 4S. 



SHORT METHODS. 



81 





Diagram i6. 



82 SHORT METHODS. 



Above 48 the increase at D is reduced to l-16th, while below 36 or 
from '36 down to 24 the decrease at D is 3-16 inch. 

From 36 up the length is usually the same on all sizes, but from 
36 down should be shortened at least % inch for each size. The increase 
on both back and front at the waist line is the same as the breast, 
Vi inch for all sizes except above 48. 

Above this size the waist is usually larger than the breast, hence 
2-3 of this excessive waist measure should be applied to the front at 
E and 1-3 at P, on the fore part. 

JACKETS. 

Since the jacket is drafted on the principle of the shirt the grade 
is the same, using point B as the grading point for the back part and 
G on the fore part, grading from a 36 size. 

KNICKERBOCKERS... 

DIAGRAMS 47-48. 

Draft a size 8 as per Diagram 23. 

Measure in on the fore part from 1 to 2, i-6 seat, and square down 
to the seat line. 

Now draw a line from point A through the two points at top of 
fore part as lines B and C. 

The increase in rise is % inch for each size. 

Extend the seat line and apply the increase % inch on each side. 

Square down from A for center line of front. 

Apply the increase in length % inch for each size on this line, and 
square each way from this line at each point. 

Apply the bottom measure for the largest size, placing V^ bottom 
from center line to 5 and % bottom plus % inch from center line to G 
and draw a line from 5 to 3 and 6 to 4. 

Use the grade sheet as a chart and prick through at each point 
for each size. 

Draft the back part in the usual way and draw a line from grading 
point A through the two upper points of the back, extending the seat 
line and center line as shown in the Diagram. 

Apply the increase the same as in the fore part and shape. 

The pant is finished with a strap at bottom by laying two small 
pleats each in both back and front or by taking out a V 1 inch wide 
at the center lino in bolli back and front, making the dart seam 21-2 
inches long. 



SHORT METHODS. 



83 





Diagram 47. 



Diagram 48. 



84 SHORT METHODS. 



TROUSERS. 
DIAGRAMS 49-50. 

The best grading size for trousers is a 30 waist. Using size 30 for a 
model measure in on the fore part at the waist 1-6 seat from K, and 
square down. Now measure down from 6, % waist for point 7, and 2 
inches for 8. Draw a grading line from 7 through I and K and extend 
the seat line at G and B. 

Now place the square with point 15 on scale of halves at 6 and mark 
at the corresponding number for each waist size on same scale for 
depth of waist or rise. 

For a 32 mark at 16, a 34 at 17, 36 at 18, etc.; this will give the 
correct rise. 

Square each way from these points and the intersection of these 
lines with the grading lines above K and I will give the correct waist 
size. The increase on the seat line at both G and B is % inch. 

Now place the fore part on paper and draft a 30 back, as per 
Diagram 20. 

After completing the draft draw a line from the grading point 7 
through point 1 and from 8 through point 2. 

Apply the same increase at top of back as on front and both the 
rise and waist sizes will be correct. 

The increase on the seat line at both S and R is %th. 

For 35 and 36 lengths, however, the rise should be increased, as 
increased height means also increased depth of waist. 

Draw a "TTne from 3 down through Q and apply the increase in 
length on this line. Place one-fourth bottom each way from this line 
for bottom of largest size and draw a disproportionate grading line 
from these points to the points at bottom of model. 

This will regulate the size of the bottom on the intervening sizes. 

0\ERALLS. 

For the two seam overall the same rule and the same increase 
applies as on trousers. 

For the one seam overall, howt^ver, the best policy is to draft the 
largest and smallest size, placing the one upon the other so that the 
outlines parallel, with an equal distance between the points and grade 
by the usual method of spacing. 

This imtlci'ii licing a union of the two parts, front and back, it 
would l)e (lil'licult In grade from any given point without producing a 
dis|>roi)orl ionate iial tern. 

LEGGINGS. 

Leggings are graded by extending llie cross lines at ankle, knee 
and bottom. The increase both front and l)ack for full sizes is li inch, 
and for half sizes l^th. 





Diagram i9. 



Diagram 50. 



86 



SHORT METHODS. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 

Grading is not only permissable but advisable, for by this means a 
set ot patterns can be made more uniform than by drafting each size, 
and with less danger of error. 

In grading a set of patterns, however, one should be extremely 
careful and accurate both in the original draft and in the location of 
the grading points. 

Unless the grade chart is perfect the patterns will be imperfect, 
and too much caution can not be used in this respect. 

Even after cutting the patterns it is well to place them one upon 
the other with the largest underneath and ranging upwards to the 
least, and compare their relative proportion. 






SHORT METHODS. 87 



ECONOMY IN CUTTING. 

How to economize is an ever present problem with the manufac- 
turer. Keen competition makes it so. 

To the cutter is given the responsibility of exercising the proper 
economy in cutting up the vast amount of materials consumed in the 
average factory. 

Much of the profit is made or lost on the cutting table. The cutter 
therefore should feel this responsibility and exercise the utmost judg- 
ment in cutting. Likewise the firm should respect the responsibilities of 
the cutter and remember that while he is expected to use the least pos- 
sible amount of material, he is also expected to produce good full 
garments, beside which the matter of yardage, though important, should 
be of secondary consideration. 

Actual economy in cutting is the production of good full garments 
from as little cloth as possible, and yet, actual economy in manufac- 
turing does not hinge solely on the amount of material consumed. 

Cutters who are familiar with the details of manufacturing in the 
work room are fully aware that the saving of cloth in cutting by an 
elaborate piecing process is sometimes more expensive than to eliminate 
the piecing and use more cloth. 

Especially is this true on cheap fabrics, and the cutter, or rather 
the one in authority, will do well to compare the actual amount saved 
in cutting, by the piecing process, with the actual cost of getting thos':) 
pieces sewed on again. 

Labor is one of the largest items of expense in manufacturing of 
any description, and the manufacture of clothing is no exception. 

Every seam in the garment costs money, whether the basis is time 
work or piece work. 

If, as in most cases, the cutting and sewing room are operated as 
separate and distinct departments, the cutter is prone to think that 
every tub stands on its own bottom, that it is his particular duty to 
economize in material, whether by piecing or otherwise, and if the 
expense of make-up in the other department is greater than the amount 
actually saved by piecing, it may be the firm's misfortune, but it is not 
his fault. 

The amount saved by piecing is figured in yards and inches and 
easily calculated. The amount lost in make-up is divided between 
the actual cost of the operation of sewing the pieces on, the decrease 
in production, the cost of ripping and fixing when the pieces are 
improperly joined as is frequently the case with the average help, the 
loss in re-cutting the small pieces that are occasionally lost, the number 
of twisted, awry garments as a result of improper joining of pieces, 
etc., etc., which makes an accurate estimate of the loss difficult. 

In custom cutting of course the balance is in favor of piecing 
whenever saving of material can be made. In manufacturing, espe- 
cially on the cheaper fabrics, it is up to the person in authority to 
determine when it will save and when it does not. 



SHORT METHODS. 



While it is neither possible or necessary to eliminate piecing 
entirely from factory work, such piecing as is permitted should be 
uniform in order to simplify as much as possible the process of make- 
up in the work room. 

For instance, if the piece can be made a uniform size for all the 
various garments, the danger of mixing is eliminated. 

If the two seam edges of the piece can be made the same length 
the danger of joining the wrong sides is removed. 

Practically all of this can be arranged in the original draft of the 
garment or in the set of patterns, and to cut understandingly one 
should have a technical knowledge of the construction and draft of the 
garment. 

While it may sound peculiar to suggest that the pattern or garment 
should be fitted to the cloth, yet this in a sense is true in manufacturing. 

The cutter will find in almost every instance, after drafting the 
garment according to the correct style, and completing the grade of 
the set of patterns, that by laying the patterns on the cloth and making 
a thorough study of his layout he will be able to perfect a layout that 
will effect a saving of cloth, a piecing scheme, if necessary ,that will 
not be cumbersome or difficult in the work room, and perhaps alter 
his patterns slightly to admit of more advantageous cutting without 
affecting either the style or fullness of the garment. 

In suits of course the styles are so varied that it would be difficulL 
to give an illustration that would be of any special benefit. 

TROUSERS. 

In trousers, however, the layouts are more limited. 

While the styles frequently change, and produce very different 
effects, the contour of the pattern remains practically the same, and 
the method of laying them varies but little. 

The three systems illustrated and which are most commonly used, 
as known as the Five Front, the Four Front, and the Straight Lay. 

Diagram 42. 

The Five Front lay as a rule can only be used on the ordinary 
straight leg or tight leg Irousers, or for youths' sizes, the fore parts on 
peg tops, mollies, or welt seam trousers, being too large to lay in this 
manner. 

The front occupying the center position in this lay must, of course, 
be one of the smallest sizes, and those on the side the longest. 

In cutting 12 to 18 sizes, ten sizes are grouped, placing the ten 
fronts in two groups of five each and laying the backs two and two, 
the remainder of the sizes, usually the largest, being laid straight lay 
fashion, with back and front together. 

The advantage of (his system is lliat one cnliro length is gained in 
the lay of ten sizes, 'flic disad\antage is that the crotch on nearly 
every back and usually on the two cciilci' fi'onts must be i)ieced. unless 
on very wide goods. 



SHORT METHODS. 



89 



-V 



90 SHORT METHODS. 



The tendency of the mills to make wider goods, if continued, will 
increase the advantages of this system, as the 30 and 60 inch goods 
will admit of a very large pattern laid in this way. 

At the present time, however, so many mills are clinging to the old 
width looms, that the conditions are almost as bad, if not worse, than 
before the change began. 

Then the cutter had one width only to contend with. Now he has 
a variety of widths ranging all the way from 27 inch on narrow piece 
dyes, etc., to 31 and even 32 inch goods. 

This gives him the double task of selecting his cloth both as to 
width and style of cut or make-up. 

Diagram 43. 

The Four Front lay therefore offers a very advantageous method 
since it admits of a larger pattern, and will therefore accommodate the 
large peg top, welt seam, or even molly patterns on the wide or ordinary 
goods, and the smaller styles on very narrov^ goods. 

In this lay the fronts are laid with the smaller sizes on the side 
and the larger ones in the center, each two groups of four overlapping, 
as shown in the Diagram. 

The backs are laid two and tw^o as in the five front and requii'e 
the same amount of piecing. The chief advantage of this layout over 
the five front lies in the fact that it will admit of a larger pattern for 
the same width fabric, and that instead of being limited to one or two 
groups, or to ten or twenty sizes, every four sizes can be grouped 
throughout the lay. 

In cutting 16 sizes therefore it is possible to group the entire lay, 
whereas in the five front only ten sizes could be grouped. 

Of course it would be possible in the five front to group 15 sizes, 
but it would require considerable extra work to cut the odd back. 

Diagram 44. 

The straight lay is doubtless the oldest in use and thought by many 
to be the best. 

The scheme in this layout is to lay the longest, largest fronts with 
the least back and visa versa, letting the bottom of the front overlap 
behind the back of the adjoining size. 

Whatever may be said for or against this method, it is certain that 
it requires little or no piecing, affords an easier method of working up 
short ends, and if the pattern is properly cut for this lay, it will lay 
better on the stripe, and nearly if not quite as little yardage as either 
of the other two. 

For this lay the front should be cut as small at the bottom as pos- 
sible to not injure the appearance of the garment, but one distinct ad- 
vantage is that it does not require the back to be straightened as is 
frequently done by cutters who favor the other two layouts. 

For single width, or 28 to 30 inch goods it is equal to either of the 
other two methods if properly used. Of course in wide goods (double 
width) much depends on the style of the garment and width of the 



SHORT METHODS. 91 



fabric, as in some cases it is an advantage to open out the wide goods 
while in others it is not. 

In some plants where the practice of opening out the wide goods is 
continually followed, the center crease is pressed out and the goods 
rolled on long wooden rollers. This is usually done by the sponger. 

As has been stated, the cutter will find that by placing his patterns 
on the cloth he will discover slight changes that can be made in the 
pattern that will greatly reduce the yardage and at the same time not 
affect the style or fullness of the garment. For instance, the bottom 
of the front may be slightly reduced and the amount added to the back, 
but if this is done it should not all be removed from the same side of 
the front or all added to one side of the back, for this will result in 
a twisted garment. In making such changes an equal amount must 
be removed or added to both sides of the pattern. If you should tahe 
% inch from the in seam edge of the front and add it to the out seam 
edge of the back it will result in a badly twisted garment, yet cutters 
in reducing or enlarging on a pattern or in marking frequently mak(.' 
this mistake. 

On the other hand, if you take Vi inch from the in-seam of the 
front and add to the in seam of the back, the out seam will hang cor- 
rectly, but the in seam will be too far forward. 

In reducing the leg size on a pattern the same rule applies. If for 
instance the reduction is to be % inch and you remove M from the in 
seam of the front and V-t from the in seam of the back you have 
increased the width of the stride. 

If it is found necessary to straighten the back it should be done in 
the draft by making the distance from J to V 1-3 seat plus % or % inch 
or whatever amount is necessary to give the back the desired pitch, 
(See Diagram 19-20). 

If a very straight back is desired the two seam overall draft in 
Diagram 36 may be found advantageous. 

KNICKERBOCKERS A\D KNEES. 

Boys' pant patterns are so small and the width of goods so variable 
that it would be impossible to give an illustration that would be of any 
benefit. The yardage, however, should range from 14 to 17 yards per 
donzen on Knickers and 10 to 12 yards on Knees, owing to the width 
of goods. 

OVERALLS. 

The lay out on two seam overalls and in fact all overalls, is very 
simple, the size of the pattern making grouping impossible, and the only 
real skill required is in the lay of the trimmings. 

In this class of work more than any other perhaps, does the lay 
out afi'ect the draft. The goods is of a cheap grade, competition is 
keen, and the cutter must utilize every inch of cloth to the very best 
advantage. 



92 SHORT METHODS. 



The drafts given in Diagram 35-36 and 37 are of the very best for 
economical cutting. 

One method of economizing in cutting the standard apron or bib 
overall is to cut the inner facings, such as the front waist band, the 
top bib facing, etc., from a cheaper material. The best grade Denims 
are worth usually 12 to 14 cents. If these trimmings are cut from a 
cheaper fabric, say 7 cents, the actual yardage on the Denim of say a 
regular 40 yard garment will be reduced to S6 yards. 

If four yards are used for the trimmings in the cheaper fabric the 
cost is reduced one-half, which is equivalent to saving two yards per 
dozen of the regular fabric. 

The buckle straps and flys may be cut the same as trouser flys and 
lined. Selicia is cheaper than high grade Denim. Even the back waist 
band may be cut single and lined with the same malerial as is used foi* 
the front band and bib facing. 

Brown drill is suitable and good, and as the pockets are made of 
the same material, the interior of the garment has the same white 
finish throughout and presents a neat appearance. 

This also relieves the thickness at the seams and buttoning points, 
and if the ordinary brown drill is not desired it is an easy matter to 
have it dyed. 

The one seam overall is laid very much the same as the two seam 
except where the bib is cut on, in which case the width of the goods 
and the lay of the pattern must figure largely in the draft. 

On Ibis garment the bib of one should fit down behind the back 
of the other size, and as this garment must be finished with a button 
hole facing at the side the front can be cut narrower than for the 
other styles. 

SHIRTS. 

In shirts, as in overalls, I he size of the pattern makes the lay out 
very simple so far as the shirt itself is concerned, but the skill required 
is in the lay of the trimmings. 

On some goods, however, considerable advantage is gained in piec- 
ing the sleeves, but the piecing should be uniform for convenience in 
the work room. 

A cutter of meagre exerpience on shirts should be caretiil of the 
shoulder points, front opening and facings, otherwise he will have some 
twisted collars. 

Also in making up the shirt care must be taken in facing the fron-., 
to have the turned edge of Mie facings equally divided on each side ot 
the seam edge or opening line of the shirt or a twisted front or collar 
will result. 

'I'iie collar hand inr I lie sliii't may be cul slraighl. bul Ihe belhn* 
way is to shape it as shown in liie lower pai't ol' Ihe lui'n down collar 
in (liagi'ain. 



SHORT METHODS. 



93 



PART TWO. 

MANUFACTURING. 



94 SHORT METHODS. 



INTRODUCTORY. 

Since this is perhaps the first book ever published, intended ex- 
pressly for, and confining itself entirely to the Clothing Manufacturing 
Industry, or possibly the first book in which the subject of Clothing 
Manufacturing has been discussed at all, a few prefatory remarks as to 
the contents of this part of the book will not be out of place. 

The book as a whole is written in the interest of those engaged in 
the Clothing Industry, and is therefore intended to benefit every man 
so identified who desires to acquire all the knowledge obtainable con- 
cerning the business in which he is chiefly interested, whether it be 
the small salaried cutter's assistant or apprentice striving for advance- 
ment, or the self-confident manager wiio feels that he has the most 
perfect organization in the world. 

It is not by any means assumed that this book contains all of the 
fundamental principles of clothing manufacture — far from it— but the 
subjects touched upon, and the treatment accorded each, are worthy of 
the attention of the best. 

Comparisons are usually beneficial. It is always worth while to 
know what means the other fellow uses to obtain the same results, 
hence Part Two of this book explaining the best systems used by our 
leading manufacturers, coupled with practical hints, suggestions and 
facts, gathered here and there in the trade, representing the essence of 
years of experience, should be of interest to each and every reader 
regardless of his ability, while to the younger element growing up in 
the trade it will be equal to years of practical experience. 



SHORT METHODS. 95 



SYSTEM. 

System is the balance wheel of industry. Without system all would 
be chaos. Yet in all branches of manufacturing we see occasional evi- 
dences of utter indifference to system, or a degree of ignorance equally 
as bad. The clothing industry is no exception, and ranging upward 
from the crude, indifferent work-shop to the large systematic factory 
may be observed all the various stages of factory organization. 

A system is not perfect unless it operates automatically. The eyes 
of the superintendent nor even his assistants can not be everywhere. 
The system must operate for them. 

In many places where system is attempted it is overdone. It is 
made both complex and cumbersome. 

A system to be effective must be simple enough to be understood by 
each and every operative. It must begin with the laying up of the cloth 
in the cutting room and never cease until it delivers the completed 
garment to the stock room, indicating the duties of each and every 
operator in its line of progress, clearly and distinctly, keep an accural e 
account of the labor performed by each, keep the various units of work 
properly assembled during the process, and deliver to the office an 
accurate account of its travels and expenses. 

The first part of a system to be considered is the method of han- 
dling the work. 

In practically all factories the work is handled by one or the other 
of the four following ways: 

1st. The "complete" or one-handling process, wherein the garment 
is completed by one operator. 

2nd. The "two-handling" process, one operator doing all perhaps 
but the seaming or finger work. 

3rd. Team work, in which the work is handled by a team of 
usually ten or more operators, each performing a small part of the 
work. 

4th. "Section work," in which the work is divided into classes or 
sections, each performed by a different set of operators. 

The first two have been practically eliminated by the remarkable 
advancement in the construction of special machines for clothing manu- 
facture in the past few years, which has made divisional work of some 
sort almost imperative on practically every style of garments made. 

To properly systematize the work for the two latter processes is 
a problem that is constantly presenting itself for solution, for scarcely 
a year passes which does not present some new mechanical creation 
which revolutionizes the process of manufacture and requires a com- 
plete revision of the system. 

Formerly all classes of garments were made by the "complete" or 
one-handling process, each operator completing the garment with the 
exception perhaps of button holes and buttons, but as the number of 
special machines increased, divisional work was adopted because of 



96 SHORT METHODS. 



the impracticability of sending the work to the specials and back to 
the original operator again. Some few, however, still endeavor to 
harmonize the old method with their modern improvements and trans- 
port the work from the original operator to the special and back again, 
time and again during the completion of the garment. 

\^niile the methods known as "team work" and "section work" are 
perhaps the best that have been devised to meet modern conditions, 
they are not without their weak points. 

The principle difTicultios to be overcome by any system are (1) tlie 
irregularity of help (especially female), (2) the varying capacity of 
operators, and (3) the care of the work in process so as to avoid loss 
of trimmings or mixing of shades and sizes. 

Tn team work each team consists of a certain number of operators, 
usually ten or more, occupying adjoining machines, and passing the 
work from one to the other one garment at a time. 

Obviously, in this system the irregularity of help would be quite a 
factor, as. in the absence of one or more operators on a team, a sub- 
stitute must be supplied for the vacancy or the whole team is disor- 
ganized. 

The process of work, however, on the "t(\Tnr' system is usually 
rapid, the theory being the same as in all divisional work, that an 
operator can become more efTicient, and in less lime, on a small portion 
of the work than on the whole of it. 

The principle disadvantage in team w^ork lies in the fact that the 
absence of a single operator completely disrupts the team unless a sub- 
stitute can be provided, which is often times impossible. 

This one disadvantage should be sufficient to cause the complete 
abandonment of team work, for any system to be successful and 
economical, must be so arranged that each division may be operated 
(for a reasonable time at least i independent of the rest, and must be 
sutTficiently elastic to admit of slight changes, either from change :n 
make-up, or the introduction of new machinery, wn'lhout disorganizing 
the balance of the system. 

It is not claimed for "section work" that it is the one and only 
system ]>y winCh clothing should be manufactured. No system is per- 
fect. All lia\t^ their evils, bul in choosing evils it is wise to choose the 
lesser. 

Tn "section work" each division ov section operates independent 
of the rest. Not entirely so, of course, but no one operator is dependent 
upon anollKM', piece by piece, for his work, and each division is inde- 
pendent of Ihc rcsl to the extent Ibat a break-down, shortage of help, 
or other delay to the work is not felt by the other divisions for a 
reasonable length of time. 

The problem in any sort of (li\isional woi'k is to keep the work 
properly balanced so that i( will nol arcuniulale at one point and run 
short at another. 

The one distinct advantage that section work has over l,eam work 
in this respect is that in team work the balance depends on I he efTic- 



SHORT METHODS. 97 



iency of the operator ,wliile in section work it depends upon the number 
of operators on each section. 

Obviously it is easier to control the number of operators than it 
is to control the efficiency of the individual operator. 

Again, in making up ditTerent styles of garments there are some 
parts of the work that would be eliminated altogether on some grades. 

In the team the operator performing that part of the work would 
be temporarily out of a job, while in section work enough of each grade 
could be kept going to keep all hands busy. 

Tt would be practically impossible to prescribe a division in the 
work that would be applicable to each and every style or class of 
garments, but there are some general rules to be observed by which 
most any one can successfully arrange their own work to suit their 
own needs. 

1st. No special machine should be used that requires an extra 
division of the work unless some distinct advantage either in speed or 
workmanship is to be gained by its use. 

2nd. Make no division in the work except such as are necessary 
to admit or accommodate the special machines used. 

3rd. Embody as much work as possible in each section and in no 
case have the work handled by the same operator twice. 

4th. Have the general arrangement of the work room and equip- 
ment conform as much as possible to the working system so that the 
work will travel from point to point in logical order. 

.5th. Harmonize the differences of make-up of the various grades 
as far as possible so as to limit the variations in the actual work 
performed by each operator on the various grades or styles. 

6th. Assemble all the minor parts of the garment at as early q 
stage as possible to avoid loss or mixing of parts or sizes. 

7th. Simplify and condense everything in connection with the 
system in the greatest possible degree. 

An example of one of the most effective systems of section work 
on trousers, and the special machines used in connection therewith is 
as follows: 

1st — Special. Belt straps (and buckle straps). 

2nd — Special. Serger or zigzag. 

3rd — Special. Making trimmings (pockets, flys, and put on straps''. 

4th — Special. Cutting back and watch pockets (two needle pockat 
cutter). 

5th — Special. Buttonholes in flys. 

6th — Ordinary. Putting in pockets, put on flys. 

7th — Ordinary. Out seam, cord, canvas, back seam, and bi^lt straps. 

8th— Special. Pocket serger or trimmer. 

9th — Special. Staying pockets. 
10th— Special. Waist buttons. 

11th — Ordinary. Waist lining and stitch down fly. 
12th — Press. Waist and back seam. 
13th — Special or Ordinary. Join fronts and in seam. 



98 SHORT YIETHODS. 



14th — Special. Fly buttons. 

loth — Special. Stay fronts. 

16th — Inspection of machine work. 

17th — Press in seams (and out seams if not corded^ 

18th — Handwork (if any). 

19th — Hem bottoms (either blind stitch or bastingi. 

20th — Press bottoms. 

21st— Press off. 

22nd — Final inspection. 

While this may appear to be an elaborate division of the work, it 
will be observed that, after all, the bulk of the work is performed by 
only five sets of operators, the balance being done by specials, the 
second, fifth, sixth, eleventh and thirteenth' operation constituting the 
real work, while all the rest is done by special machines, These flv3 
sections are usually numbered Sections 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as a matter of 
convenience in keeping the time, and the average capacity of operators 
on each section is as follows: 

1st Section, 100 pair. 

2nd Section, 65 pair. 

3rd Section, 100 pair. 

4th Section, 175 pair. 

5th Section, 200 pair. 

Which figures represent about three-fourths the average main- 
tained by swift operators. 

The work is lied in bundles in the cutting room, the trimmings 
being placed in the backs, and backs and fronts tied in separate bun- 
dles, the first section operators having no work to perform to the fronts 
are therefore spared the trouble of handling them at all. Both backs 
and fronts are tagged as will be explained under the head of Time- 
keeping, and are reunited l)y the pocket cutter, who performs the first 
work done to the fronts. 

If tlie cutting room and sewing room are located on different floor? 
or occupy different rooms, as is usually the case, and a surplus space 
exists in the cutting room sufficient to contain a small number of 
machines, the first five operations can be performed in the cutting 
I'oom with considerable advantage, as only a comparatively small num- 
l)ei" of machines are required for this preliminary work. 

In this way the belt straps, pocket fiaps, and small accessories are 
made and put in the bundle before it leaves the cutting room, so that 
when it reaches tlie sewing room each bundle represents a complete 
imit of work upon which no further preliminaries are necessary. 

Where tiie two-needle pocket cutting machine is not used the 
second, third and sixth operation are combined in one, but the flys and 
flaps should be made and button holes worked beforehand, as 
this causes niore nv i(>ss confusion in the work room in passing the 
button hole pieces to the machine and l)a("k and frequently causing th3 
opei'atives to leave their machine when I hey should be at work. 



SHORT METHODS. 99 



It is a well known fact that the actual capacity of the various 
machines (both special and ordinary) greatly exceeds the average main- 
tained by the operators. The reason lies in the fact that so much timo 
is lost in transferring the work from point to point, in passing it from 
one point to another and back again, and in looking after the little 
accessories. 

Time an operator on a dozen garments, or for a given length of 
time, during which no interruption is permitted, compare the result 
with the average of the same operator for a week or month, and the 
difference will be surprising. 

It is not the purpose of this article to lay down a formula for the 
manufacture of each and every style of garinent, but to outline a gen- 
eral plan of operation by which any plant may be systematized accord- 
ing to the most modern methods, regardless of the class of garments 
manufactured or the peculiar needs or conditions of the individual 
plant. 

Trousers have been used as an example as representing an inter- 
mediate ground in the field of men's garments. 

There are very few manufacturers of men's wear that do not make 
trousers or some similar garment, unless perhaps it is the exclusive 
shirt factories. 

Likewise there are few who when given a perfect system on one 
class of garments can not work up an equally effective system on others. 

Perhaps the most difficult plant of all to thoroughly systematize 
would be the one in which several distinct classes of garments are 
made, such as shirts, pants, overalls, jackets, and duck coats. 

To this there is but one practical answer. Segregate them and 
systematize each according to its own needs. It is true that there are 
plants in operation, even small plants, in which this or an equal variety 
of garments are manufactured, but the highest degree of efficiency in 
eacli can never be attained until segregation of some sort takes place 
and a distinct system properly applied to each. 

Even the ridiculous combination of skirts and pants has been at- 
tempted, but the man who undertakes to harmonize such a combination 
into a perfect working system has acquired something which he can 
safely calculate on bequeathing to succeeding generations without the 
slightest depreciation. 

It is not meant, however, that complete segregation is necessary 
where two or more distinct classes of garments are manufactured in 
the same plant, but rather that each should operate through a separate 
and distinct channel and touch only where the same operation is com- 
mon to both. 

In other words, the same set of operatives can not work success- 
fully on such garments as trousers and shirts. Trousers and overalls, 
may be harmonized, shirts and jackets may be harmonized, but even 
then the same degree of efficiency can not be maintained as on one class 
alone. 



100 SHORT METHODS. 



Under the head of equipment and installation a logical method of 
arrangement for combinations of this sort will be discussed, but for thy 
present our attention will he directed to the subject of 

TIME KEEPING. 

A good time keeping system is one of the most essential features 
of factory organization, since, in the majority of factories the work is 
conducted on the piece work basis. 

The essentials of a time keeping system are simplicity and accuracy. 
It must conform to the method of handling the work, should be com- 
bined with the system for keeping trace of the work in operation, and 
should depend as little as possible upon the skill, memory, education, 
accuracy, or integrity of any individual. In other words, it should 
operate automatically in conjunction with the general system of oper- 
ation of which it forms so important a part. 

The cutting ticket and bundle tag have long been used by the best 
manufacturers as a means of identifying the various units of work in 
operation. 

In most cases it is also used in connection with time keeping, thy 
methods varying according to the needs or opinions of the various con- 
cerns, one of the best examples of which is herewith given. 

To begin with, each employee is numbered, numbers being more 
convenient than names, the number of each being retained throughout 
the entire term of employment. 

2nd. Each style of make-up is numbered, the make number also 
being permanent so long as that style of garment is made. The make 
number therefore indicates to the cutter how the garment is to be cut, 
indicates to each operator how each section of the work is to be per- 
formed, and indicates throughout the entire process, the price that is 
to be paid for each section of work. 

3rd. Each fold or cutting is numbered in consecutive order, begin- 
ning either with the first of the year or the first of the season, and a 
cutting ticket is used for each individual cutting, whether it consist 
of one garment or one thousand, or more. 

4th. Each bundle of work in each cutting is numbered so that 
when two or more bundles of the same size occur in a cutting they 
may be distinguished by the number. 

Since the work originates in the cutting room, the system must be 
traced from that point, or properly, the cutting ticket should first 
emanate from the office or superintendent in the form of an order to 
the cutter, indicating the lot, style, or class of goods to be cut, the 
pattern to be used, the make number under which the garment is to 
bo made, the grade of trimmings to be used (unless same is indicated 
by the make number) and whatever special instruction may be neces- 
sary, as to schedule of sizes, etc. Having cut the fold, the cutter inserts 
the sizes cut and the number of pair of each in the proper colunms. 



SHORT METHODS. 



101 



enters the total number of pair, and total yardage in the heading and 
delivers the ticket to the trimmer as a guide for trimming the fold. 

The form of cutting ticket shown on the following page can be used 
for a combination of trousers, overalls, jackets and shirts, the one form 
sufficing for all. 

In this ticket are provided two different forms of entry of sizes, 
one for regular stock, the other for small special orders, the method of 
entering these being indicated below. 




TRIMMER ^*** 


V. 




>, 


— ^ 




REMARK^/^:^^^ OrcCu.. \ 




Lot 


Ordei 


Sizes 


Yds. 


No 


Pair 




\qu 


¥^ 


y/-x-r> 


/4 


1 


^ 


\ 










^ 




/ 


?^ 


S^ 


y.-f-'X 


S^^ 


.1 


3 


/ 














1 














/ 










6 




\ 














/ 










y^ 




^ 



Stock Ticket. 



Special Order. 



The work on each class of garments is classified into five sections 
so that the section columns No. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, on the cutting sheet 
are applicable in the same manner to any class of garment entered on 
the sheet. The other columns are used for work of a similar nature on 
each class. For instance, the out seam column is used for out seam 
work on trousers and overalls, and side seams on shirts and jackets. 
The "hemming" column is used for hemming overalls and shirts, bot- 
tom basting on trousers, and bottom stitching on jackets. The "press" 
column for pressing on trousers, and folding on overalls, jackets, etc. 

The bundle tag is usually filled out by the trimmer or ticket boy, 
one tag being used for each bundle, and should bear the cutting num- 
ber, bundle number, make number, size and number of pair contained 
in the bundle, the stubs at the bottom of the tag being filled out in 
duplicate and used on fronts, sleeves, belt straps, flys, or any small 
parts of the garment that are not rolled up in the main bundle of work. 

In some cases, however, an ingenious combination of the mak3 
number and bundle number has been effected in the following manner: 
The make numbers are confined to even hundreds Or fifties, as say 100, 
150, 200, 250, 300, 350 and so on, and is combined with the bundle number. 



102 



SHORT :\IETHODS. 























WORK 


NO 


QUANTITY 


GOODS Co>^U^ <J0. 


CUniNG TICKET 

NO. 2i> 
Date J^fr- // 1910 


STRAPS 












PATTERN /V^ O 


SERGING 












MAKE NO. 1 


BH. 












N 


or.MH VJ/^ 


STAY P. 












CUTTER %-(rvOi<i/ . 


W. SEAMS 












TRIMMER UcOliUtfi 


TAPE 
















STAY F 














„j!' y} 















1 


REMARKS i^^jj',-^ 


tilLA.l^. 


Z^.^,^ iCrf /^a Aa^ sl^"^" ■" 1 


Lo, 


0,.e 


SU.. 


Vd.. 


No 


p.i. 










"^ 


Sec, J 




S,c S 


ss 


Imp 


H, W 


R„bl, 


.il-'i 


Th,a 




RocJ 






^ 






iy 






































y.. 






^ 


Jx. 


/^ 


1? 
































^3 






^/ 


2,3 


//. 


































Vz. 






V 


Z 




































¥^ 




* 


2V 






































^ 






^y 


17 


/^ 


V7 
































^ 




, 


.i/ 


^ 




































y/^ 






>v 






































% 






H 


3a 


/^ 


V;^ 
































% 




in 


^ 






































'/. 




,, 


^ 


4 




































4^ 






2-^ 






































V¥ 






7ty 


^ 


llo 


V7 
































r/^ 






^i/ 






































'^/. 






^ 






































^r^ 




II. 


■XJC 


3x 


/lo 


V7 
































^/, 




1, 


S.L 






































^^ 




IN 


H 






































^;l 






A 






















































































', 




































































































































2< 




































































































































27 




































... 




, ^ 


U.^1 


..L.J 


,.«... 




._... 












Ka^u< 















1 

1 

O 


Q 

5 














s 

< 
< 


S2 
< 

i 


i 
t 

> 
< 














































1 


1 


5 


Vs'^i:5^t^'^^V^V 






sl 


1 c» 


^ 
>< 


-^h\ 






$ 


^ 












^ 

^ 



Cutting TicJ^ct Slulj— Face Side. 



SHORT METHODS. 



K).? 



o 



Fold ^ ^ Bdl. ^ 


P..24 


See. 1 52. 


Size ^X. 


P C. //o 


Sec. 2 /g' 


Sec. 3 


Stay 


Sec, 4 


Sec. 5 




Knee B. 


H. W. 


Rubber 


Threads 


Press 



Bundle Ta^ 



^x 


L 


> 
< 

> 

s 


> 

i 
I 


> 

\ 
i 








































N 


S 




\ 

^ 


§ 

D 

•< 
> 


"0 

> 

r 



so 

w 
50 

C/1 



0. 

Z 
p 

a 







































^ 






















































































1 


Si 


s 


: 


: 


: 


? 


s 


s 


: 


: 


: 


5 


. 


. 


- 


- 


"• 


- 




i 


> 
2 






































U 




^ 



Culling Ticki'l Stub— Reverse Side. 



104 SHORT METHODS. 



Where the make number is 300, the first bundle would be 301, the second 
302, the third 303, and so on up to 325, 330, or as high as is necessary for 
the number of bundles in the cutting. 

If the make number is 250, the numbers run 251, 252, 253, and so on. 
The first part of the number indicates the make, the grade, and the 
price paid for work, while the last part indicates the number of the 
bundle in the cutting. 

When the work is properly rolled and tagged it is sent to the work 
room and the cutting ticket returned to the office, the superintendent, 
or whoever keeps the time, which brings us down to the real subject 
of time keeping. 

On the opposite page is shown two very simple time cards; both 
are exactly alike with the exception of the day at the head of each 
column, the footing and color of the card. 

At the top is a space for the date on which the week ends and for 
the number of the operator, no name at all appearing on the card. Just 
below it is a space for the section number, or the kind of work, if not 
a regular section, such as button holes, buttons, etc. 

Each card is divided into three day columns, one card being for 
Friday, Monday and Wednesday .the other for Saturday, Tuesday and 
Thursday, hence it will be seen that there are two cards for the week 
to each operator, and are used alternately. 

At the top of each day column is a space for the time in and tim'3 
out, each operator being required to obtain the card on entering the 
shop in the morning and turn it in on leaving, whether a day or piece 
hand. 

Below this are three columns, for cutting number, bundle number, 
and number of pair. 

The time therefore is virtually kept l)y the operator as it requires 
but a moment to copy from the bundle tag, the cutting number, bundle 
number and number of pair, hence no time keeper is actually needed. 

On the cutting ticket will be observed a column for each and every 
part of work done to the garment. 

The time cards being turned in at night and the opposite set issued 
the next day, the work for the preceding day can be checked up at 
leisure on the cutting sheet, by entering the number of the operator 
in the proper section column, opposite the number of the bundle given, 
a task requiring about one hour for each one hundred hands, including 
footing up the day column on the cards and specifying the price of each 
kind of work, which it will be observed, is indicated by the combined 
make number and bundle number entered in the center column. 

The advantages of this plan are manifold. 

In the first place, the cutting sheet furnishes a complete condensed 
record of the entire progress of the work from start lo finish. It re- 
quires but one cutting sheet to each cutting of say CiOO to 1,000 pair, 
one tag to each bundle of from 12 to iO pair, and I wo simple time cards 
per week lo each operator. 

II luiMiisiies a record of Ihe daily produclion of each operator. 



SHORT METHODS. 



105 



z 
o 

H 


H 
O 
-1 
> 






"^ 




X 










1 








1 1 

5^3 P^ [Xl 




z 




n o 




1 
o 










1 






























s ^ 

■ c 


5 
> 


*^ G 




1 

5 
1 
1- 








" 




-^^ 


























^^ ^- V 


? 






r 















































■n 








H 




f 


3 
> 

r 








7 

® 


X 
































E 


o 
c 


2 



z 

D 




2 

o 
































D 

z 




e 


*• 









































1 




-< 


D 


> 






' 






_ 
























































































3 


a 




f 
i- 


















































uq 




H 











































^ 








^ 




i" 


3 

> 








7 

® 


X 
































°- 


o 


o 

z 


5 


































" 
















































^ 


r 


D 










«» 


1 






































^ 


H 


> 

-< 















— 


— 
















































































? 




1^ > 










1 








1 1 


t 1 L_ 




J — L_ 













TOTAL 

If iacorrect kdvii 
AMT. FOf 






1 — 1 \ — T" 

• 




" 




~vl: z ^ 


C/5 
p 


o 










^h^^- 


^ ? § 


1^ 


*5 

TIE 




r 


*^ 1 
5^ 








> 


^^■^ 


1'^ 


i 

> 

r 




. . 3 


X 












H 


3 

5' 


£ 

o 

> 

O 

CO 


) 












g c 
Z ? » 

-< 


> 

J5 


















c 

> 

r 




: : (a 


X 












1: z 

H > 
















1 
1_ 


1 


i 1 










1 



106 SHORT METHODS. 



whether day or piece, and traces correctly the progress of the work 
through the factory, as each day's checking shows the advancement of 
each cutting for the preceding day, and it indicates promptly any mix- 
up of sizes, or bundles that may and do occasionally occur in any 
factory. It is accurate, for no one item of work can be paid for twice 
if the work is properly checked on the cutting ticket, which is a very 
simple task, requiring only ordinary intelligence. 

When the week end is reached the pay roll is quickly completed 
by arranging the two sets of cards in numerical order, and computing 
the footings of each day column, placing the amount due at the 
bottom of one of the cards, and no time book is really needed, the cards 
being filed for reference. 

An excellent record of the weekly progress of work in the factory 
may also be kept in the ottlce by using one of the cutting sheets and 
entering in each section column the total amount produced on that 
section during the week, which totals may be easily obtained from the 
time cards when making up the pay roll. This will also act as a check 
on the time keeper, as the amount paid for on each section should tally 
with the amount cut, and a single sheet will contain the record of 
several months' work. 

An occasional perusal of the time cards will show the comparative 
ability of various operators, whether or not they are maintaining the 
average capacity desired, who comes late and wiio is prompt, and, 
many other items of interest to the management. 

On the bundle tag should be provided a space for each operator 
to place his or her number opposite the section of work done, as d 
matter of convenience for the inspector in case the work is defective. 

There are many other ways in which this system may be used to an 
advantage. 

For instance, if it is desired to keep fab on the amount of thread 
used by each operator, the operator should l)e required to present the 
card to the trimmer, who will enter the thread on the card under the 
proper date. If any operator is thought to be using too much thread, 
or rather obtaining more than is used, the record on the time card will 
show it. 

If garments disapix'ar mysteriously or cnnlinuously or any thing else 
goes wrong with the work it can soon be traced to the proper party by 
requesting the help to notify the management promptly w^hen any 
shortage or ii'rcgularily is discovered. When this is reported a complete 
copy should lie made of Ihe tag accompanying the bundle of work, 
including the nunilicr of each operator who has handled it. A few 
copies of this kind will slmw the number of the guilty party appears 
on each tag while all the other numbers are changed. 



SHORT METHODS. 107 



A very effective cost system may also be worked up on this system, 
by having the day hands or time workers enter their work by hours 
instead of garments. 

For instance, when a cutting is started tlirough the sliop the cutter 
should enter on his card the cutting number and tlio time required 
to cut it, the trimmer enters the time required to trim it, the button 
sewer, button hole operator, inspector and all day operators the same. 
When the work is checked up in the cutting ticket, the time of the 
various day operators is entered thereon from the time cards, and when 
the cutting is completed the actual cost of the ontire cutting may be 
com.puted to a cent. 

For this method the cards for the day hands should be somewhat 
different than for the piece hands, which can easily be adjusted by 
inserting the words "time on" instead of "Bdl. No." and "time off' 
instead of "pair." 

The operator then will enter the cutting or fold number and the 
time when work is begun on the cutting, and when the work is finished 
he will again enter the cutting or fold number and the time the cutting 
is completed, whether it be the same day or the following day. 

While this will of course require more work on the part of the 
time keeper, it will produce an accurate statement of the cost of each 
cutting, and it will prevent all idling of day operators; keep their pro- 
duction right up to the standard at all times and practically removes 
all element of doubt as to the cost of work in process, which many 
firms do not know until the inventory is taken. 

There is also a detachable stub to the cutting ticket for the cutter's 
report, which contains a form on one side for regular stock and on tho 
other for special orders. 

At the top is filled in the fold or cutting number and date. In the 
box heading is placed the various lot numbers contained in the cutting. 
In the columns are placed the piece yardage, the net yardage being 
footed up at the bottom. Bpneath this is placed the number of gar- 
ments cut from each lot, and the totals for the cutting footed up below. 

The opposite side is for specials, and is filled in the same as thi^ 
large sheet, as shown in sample entry for Special Orders, page 101. 

This slip is detached and sent to the office as soon as the cutting 
is completed. In this manner the office is fully advised of the woric 
done in the cutting room the amount and kind of goods cut, the lot 
numbers in work, etc. 

On the next page is shown a very good card system for keeping 
tab on sales and purchases. The card is of the regular thumb index 
type about 7x11 inches, on the index of which is stamped the lot num- 
ber, one card being used for each lot. 

The heading contains tlie necessary forms, showing from whom 
purchased, price, terms, deliveries, etc. 



108 SHORT ^lETHODS. 



. On the left is columns in which to enter the amount received and 
yards cut, the remainder of the card contains five double columns rep- 
resenting each of the five months of the season. 

In one column is entered the number of garments sold, which are 
taken from the orders received and entered under the month specified 
for delivery, each entry being added to the former entries, the bottom 
figures always showing the total sold for delivery in that month. 

In the other column is entered the number of garments cut, so tha*,, 
a glance at the card at any time will show the balance between the 
amount sold and amount cut. 

This latter amount is taken from the detachable slip of the cutting 
ticket, as well as the yards used, and the slip is then turned over to 
the stock clerk, who holds same until the cutting is made up and 
delivered to him from the work room. 

The card system, however, is used only for the actual styles placed 
in the line after the line is fully completed, and is not satisfactory as 
a purchase record. 

For a purchase record there is nothing better or more convenient 
than the Handy Purchasing and Cost Book, which is specially designed 
for purchases of every kind in connection with the clothing industry, 
and is manufactured exclusively by us. 

To describe the numerous systems, forms of cutting tickets, bundle 
tags, pay checks, etc., in use, would fill a very large volume, and at the 
same time would no more answer the purpose of this book than one 
simple system and set of forms. 

What is really needed in any factory is one good, simple, w-orking 
system, adaptable to the class of garments made and suited to the 
peculiar needs of the individual plant. 

Of the many systems and forms with which we are familiar the 
one given is the simplest and best. With only slight modifications it 
can be adapted to every style of garment made, and the addition of 
other styles of garments to the line, or the introduction of new machin- 
ery will rarely, if ever, require any change in the system. 

EQUIPMENT AND INSTALLATION. 

Tiie usual method of installing machines in a clothing factory is in 
long tables or rows, usually full length of the building, leaving perhaps 
an opening in the center, forming a box step over the shaft, belting to 
the table nearest the motive power, and thence across from one to the 
other, or swinging counter shaft overhead and belting down. 

It is only of recent years that any deviation from this plan has 
been made and even today the vast majority of plants are so erected. 
It is the line of least resistance. 

And yet the owner or manager of a plant so erec((^d, provided it is 
of any considerable size, has only to walk inio the work room and 
qu jelly watch the procession — the constant inarch of his employees 
raiTving work to and fro, and compute the amount of time consumed in 











































o 
o 

rt- 


o 

3 


8 

rt- 
ft- 

D 

►1* 








































i 

1 

? 

r 


-i— 


— 


































— 








































































? 

h 


i — 




— 


— 






























































-< 

I 








































? 

e 








































P 




X 








s 




<3) 






s 

i 

a 






o 






o 









































110 SHORT METHODS. 



this process weekly, monthly or annually, to arrive at the conclusion 
that his plant is wrongly erected. 

The clothing business has become an industry. It is no longer 
an over-grown tailor shop. 

The main point to be considered in the erection of a manufac- 
turing plant is expressed in one word — "convenience." Economy of 
time and labor, the one great item of expense in clothing manufacturing. 

The cost of equipment comes but once in the life-time of a plant, 
the pay roll comes every week as long as the plant exists. 

The introduction of so many special machines has multiplied the 
amount of handling required in the process of manufacture, and the 
only way in which the expense of handling can be kept from over- 
balancing the advantage gained by the specials, is by the establishment 
of a perfect working system by which the work is made to travel sys- 
tematically, almost automatically, from point to point, i. e., that each 
operator or set of operators may, with the least possible time and 
energy, place the work convenient for the next operator or set of 
operators. 

Chief among the features of modern equipment, especially where 
electric power is used, is that of individual motors; not individual 
motors for each machine, but individual motors for each fable. 

Of course the first cost on several small motors would be somewhat 
higher than one large one, but when one considers the cost of counter 
shafting, hangers, pulleys and belting, loss of power through the use of 
same, future damage from oil dripping boxes, overhead belts, etc., the 
additional cost is not so great after all, and one has only to get back 
to his A B C's and remember that the cost of installation comes but 
once, while the power bill arrives regularly every thirty days. 

It must be borne in mind that in the operation of power sewing 
machines, about 80 per cent of the power is consumed in the operation 
of counter shafts, line shafts, and transmitters, while the otlier 20 per 
cent is applied direct to the machines. The saving of all this 80 per 
cent possible is worthy of careful consideration, and the installation of 
individual motors is a long step in that direction. 

These, however, can not be connected direct to the shaft, because 
of the low speed required, the usual speed of the shafting being about 
400 to 425 R. P. M., hence they will require belting. 

In calculating the size of motor necessary to operate a gi\en num- 
ber of machines, the point of intermittence should be considered. 

Machine people estimate about one-tenth horsepower to each 
machine, but it should be borne in mind that the larger the number of 
machines, the greater the degree of intermittence, and therefore a one- 
horsepower motor will easily operate 14 to 16 machines on one table, 
the main task being to drive the shafting and transmitters. 

While it is obviously impossible to prescribe a plan of installatioTi 
that would suit the location and requirements, or eliminate all of the 
(lif'liculties that may be encountered in the erection or operation of a 
l)laiit, a giMieral idea of practical installation is given on page 111. 



SHORT METHODS. 



Ill 




FLOOR PLAN. 
Equipment, 140 Machines. 



112 SHORT METHODS. 



The sketch sliows the lloor iilau of a moderately large plant, the 
equipment consisting of 140 machines, including all specials, and occu- 
pying a room 80x100 feet. 

Short tables are used (containing 12 machines each^ and are placed 
crossways of the room, five on each side, with ends to the wall. ]n 
the center, and lengthwise of the room, is a table containing 20 
machines, all specials. On each side of this table is a row of racks oi- 
bins in which to deposit the work in process of manufacture, which 
are 30 inches wide, four feet long and about 16 inches from the floor, 
with high rails at each end, and are made to contain 600 to 800 garments 
each. Between the ends of the cross tables and the racks is an aisle 
of five to six feet in width, with about the same space between tho 
special machine table and the racks. 

The cross tables are spaced 12 feet apart from shaft to shaft, which 
leaves only about eight feet between the tables, or an aisle of about 
three to four feet between the chairs of the operators when seated. 

Below the special machine table, toward the rear of the building, 
and center between the racks, is a table for the inspection of the work 
in the first stages. Between this and the machine table is the machinists 
bench, while at the upper end of the table, toward the front of the 
building, is the table for final inspection of the machine work. 

In the remainder of the space at the front of the building is ample 
room for hand work, seam pressing, and such other pressing as is 
needed in the process of manufacture, but the final disposition of th<' 
garment, such as pressing, folding, final inspection, etc., would perhaps 
have to be done in another room or department unless a larger room 
was used or a less number of machines. 

All this, however, depends upon the class of garments for which 
the plant is intended. 

The drive is from one large motor suspended from the ceiling over 
the machinists bench, from which is driven a single (overhead) counter- 
shaft, placed crosswise of the building. From this is driven the special 
machine table in the center, and one of the short tables on each side, 
as shown in the sketch, the remaining tables being driven by belting 
across from one to another along the wall, the belting being boxed and 
therefore entirely out of the way. Thus it will be observed that all the 
belting and shaft obstructions are removed. 

The main features of this plan are as follows: 

1st. The work is all concentrated at one com.mon, convenient center, 
in the midst of which are the machines that deal in volumes such as 
button machines, button hole, staying and all finishing machines. 

2nd. The short table feature affords more "end spaces," which are 
especially desirable for the location of pocket cutters, pocket trimmers, 
seamers, and other specials, used in the regular process, which also 
handle large volumes of work and which, it will be observed, are also 
located- convenient to the work center. 

3rd. The short and direct route from any given machine to the 
work center. 



SHORT METHODS. H3 



4th. The opportunity afforded for specializing or segregating the 
various classes of work, and, 

5th. The division of the plant into working units, which may be 
added to or diminished without disturbing the remainder. 

It should be here remarked, however, that the proper power equip- 
ment for a plant of this type is individual motors for each table, the 
belt drive from a single power center being shown merely for the 
benefit of those who are forced, or prefer to use steam or other motive 
power requiring a belt drive, and it may also be stated that the plan is 
as practical for the small plant as for the large one. 

If the work is handled on the "team work" basis the short tables 
are admirably adapted for this method, a complete team occupying 
each table, with perhaps one or two specials on the end. 

The work should begin next to the wall and progress toward the 
end of the table, each team discharging its volume of work into the 
racks, whence it is to pass through the hands of the finishing operators 
to final completion. 

If operated on the section work principle, the sections are arranged 
in logical order, from one end of the room to the other, the first section 
occupying the first table, the second section the second table, and per- 
haps the third, the third section occupying the fourth table, the fourth 
the fifth table, etc., the work beginning with the first section and travel- 
ing along the racks or work center as the work of each section is per- 
formed until finally completed by the finishing machines in the center. 

The same principle applies in the manufacture of a combination 
of two or more classes of garments, and herein lies the principle of 
segregation mentioned on page 99. 

If two classes of garments are made, as for instance trousers and 
overalls, one should occupy one side of the house and the other the 
opposite, the division applying to the finishing machines in the center 
as well as the ordinary equipment on each side. 

If more than two classes are made, cerlain tables may he used for 
each, as for instance, one section for trousers, another for overalls, and 
another for shirts, or one sections for coats, another for vests, anci 
another for trousers. 

Supposing, for instance, Ihe plant is intended for overalls and 
trousers in about equal proportion and each operated on the section 
work plan, as outlined on page 97. 

Beginning at the rear of the building, on the trouser side, the first 
table would contain the first section operators with perhaps a serger 
(zigzagi and belt strap machine on the end. These would obtain their 
work from the end racks, where it had been delivered from the cutting 
room, and deposit it when finished in the first racks on their side. 

The second table would contain second section operators with per- 
haps a pocket cutter (two needle") and a button hole machine (for fiys; 
on the end. The pocket cutter would obtain the work deposited by the 
first section, and deposit it further up the line, ready for the second 
section. 



114 SHORT METHODS. 



I'he third table would also be oecupied by additional second section 
operators, with a pocket trimmer on the end. On the fourth table 
would be the third section operators, each set of operators moving th<. 
worlv a little further up the line of racks or work center. 

From the third section tht^ work would be deposited in the line of 
racks directly behind the button machines and staying machines or, 
the center table, who in turn would perform Iheir work. Thence il 
would recross to the fourth section, waist seam presser, seamer, and 
back again to the center table, for fly buttons, blind stitch, etc., the 
finishing machines for the pants being placed on one side only of th'^ 
center table, the opposite side being reserved for the finishing machine^ 
for overalls. 

On the overalls the work would also begin at the rear of the build- 
ing and in the same manner as the pants. 

The arrangement of the sections, however, would be different, as 
would also the equipment, because on some grades of overalls, the first 
part of the work would be performed by single needle machines, and 
the second part by double needle, while on others the work would be 
reversed. 

For this reason therefore the single needle operators should pass 
as first section, and the double needle as second section. 

Two sections being sufficient for most of the overall work the 
term "third section" would apply only on those grades or styles on 
which a third operation is necessary. 

Beginning therefore at the first table the equipment would consist 
entirely of single needle machines, for making suspenders, hemming 
and facing bibs, etc. 

The second table would be the same. 

The third and fourth tables would consist of double needle ma- 
chines for the second section. 

The fifth, of single needle machines for the third section, while 
on the special table would be the felling machines, sleeve machines, 
button hole, staying and button machines, and the work would progre.ss 
in practically the same manner as on trousers. 

The sketch of the plant, and the foregoing description of the plan 
of operation are sufficient to give a clear idea of the possibilities that 
may be worked out on this principle, and since the details must be 
worked out in each plant according to its own equipment, floor space, 
shape of building, class of garments made, etc., little more is necessary 
on the subject. 

On page 115, however, is given a sketch of a smaller plant con- 
structed on the same principle, the chief points of which, as ha? 
doubtless been observed, are the relative positions of the machine 
tables, the location of specials, and the centralization of the work in 
process. 



SHORT METHODS. 



115 




FLOOR PLAN. 
Equipment, 74 Machines. 



116 SHORT METHODS. 



SPECIAt, MACHINES. 

It has hoen remarked that special machines play an important part 
in modern clothing manufacture, and to those havmg in consideratioji 
the equipment of a new plant, or to those who have had no former' 
experience with any of the specials named, the following may be of 
interest. 

It should be here remarked, however, that the average capacity 
of machines given is the average capacity of the average operator and 
not the rated capacity of the machines. 

Button hole machines, flys, etc., 3,000 button holes per day; waisi 
bands, coats, etc., 1,200 to 1,800. 

Serger (zigzag) on trousers, 250 to 300 pair per day. 

Belt strap (for trousers) 1,800 pair per day. 

Two needle pocket cutter (for trousers), 500 pair per day, cutting 
two back pockets and a watch pocket. 

Pocket trimmer (over seaming), 600 pair per day of trousers, over- 
alls, or similar work. 

Chain stitch seamers (on trousers, etc.), 450 pair. 

Union Special Felling Machine (joining overalls, shirts, etc."), one 
seam, 700 pair; two seams, 300 pair; sleeves for jackets, 300 pair. 

Union Special Sleever (for putting in sleeves), 300 pair. 

Staying Machines (for staying pockets, flys, etc.), average, 2,500 
pockets per day, two stays to each; flys, 1,500 pair. 

Taping Machine (for knee pants, etc), 800 pair per day. 

Knee Band Machine, 350 pair per day. 

Two Needle Machines (for flat stitching on overalls, shirts, jacket;?, 
etc.), pockets, 120 to 250 pair per day. 

Button Sewers (four to six buttons per garment), 250 to 450 
garments per day. 

Patent Buttons, overalls, 700 to 900 pair; trousers, 600 to 800 pair 
per day. 

Blind Stitch Machine (hemming bottoms on trousers, etc), 400 to 
450 pair per day. 



SHORT METHODS. 117 



BRIEF POINTS FOR THE NOVICE. 

Corduroy clolli should not be doubled back in the usual way in 
laying up, but should be reversed so that the nap on both the upper 
and lower pieces will run the same direction. Care must also be taken 
in marking to have the bottom of the fore part and back part both 
point the same direction, otherwise the nap will run down on one and 
up on the other, producing a badly shaded garment. Hundreds of yards 
have been wasted by even good cutters in their first experience with 
corduroy just in this way. 

Corduroy is not the only fabric possessing this peculiarity. It is 
noticeable on some grades of serges, cotton piece dyes, etc. Watch your 
fabrics. 

Benzine applied to the hem of trousers wnll remove the gum almost 
immediately and release the hem. 

Rubbing cloth gently with a little fine sand paper will remove glazn 
caused in pressing or wear. Repress. 

Soap is an excellent substitute for beeswax for use on pressing 
irons or cloths, and of course much cheaper. 

On practically all machines the top thread should be from one to 
two sizes larger than the bottom thread. The top thread loses about 
40 per cent of its strength in passing through the tensions. The bottom 
does not. 

In matching thread to cloth the thread should be a shade or two 
darker than the cloth. 

To And the average yards per dozen (on table)) multiply the yards 
by 12 and divide by the number of sizes in the lay. 

To find the average yards per dozen for the lay multiply the total 
yards by 12 and divide by the total number of pair. 

To find the number of garments obtainable from a given number of 
yards, instead of dividing the amount by the average yards per dozen 
and then multiplying by 12, simply multiply as follows: 

Where the average yards per dozen is: — 

12 yards per dozen, multiply by i. 

14 yards per dozen, multiply by .86 

15 yards per dozen, multiply by .80 

16 yards per dozen, multiply by .75 
18 yards per dozen, multiply by .67 
20 yards per dozen, multiply by .60 

24 yards per dozen, divide by 2. 

25 yards per dozen, multiply by .48 
27 yards per dozen, multiply by .44 
30 yards per dozen, multiply by .40 
32 yards per dozen, multiply by .37% 



118 SHORT METHODS. 



33 1-3 yards per dozen, multiply by .36. 

34 yards per dozen, multiply by .35. 

35 yards per dozen, multiply by .34 

36 yards per dozen, divide by 3. 
40 yards per dozen, multiply by .30. 

The principle is that 12 is .80 per cent of 15, .75 per cent of 16, etc.. 
and these percentages are as easily memorized for use as is the average 
yards per dozen. 

The number 12 figures largely in factory work, both in calculating 
yardage and figuring pay rolls where the prices are based on dozens. 

The ability to multiply or divide this number mentally, and quickly 
convert it into other numbers or fractions or decimals saves time, as 
is illustrated in the following table: 

Where the price per dozen is: — 

3 cents, divide by 4. 

4 cents, divide by 3. 
6 cents, divide by 2. 

8 cents, subtract 1-3. 

9 cents, subtract 1-4. 
10 cents subtract 1-6. 

14 cents, add 1-6. 

15 cents, add 1-4. 

16 cents, add 1-3. 
18 cents, add 1-2. 

20 cents, multiply by 2 and subtract 1-3. 

21 cents, multiply by 2 and subtract 1-4. 
24 cents, multiply by 2. 

In the same manner where the prices are based per 100, and the 
price per 100 is: — 

25 cents, divide by 4. 

33 1-3 cents, divide by 3. 

50 cents, divide by 2. 

66 2-3 cents, substract 1-3. 

75 cents, subtract 1-4. 

80 cents, subtract 1-5. 

90 cents, subtract 1-10. 

$1.10, add 1-10. 

$1.20, add 1-5. 

$1.25, add 1-4. 

$1.33 1-3, add 1-3. ' 

$1.50, add 1-2. 

$1.66 2-3, multiply by 2 and subtract 1-3. 

$1.75, multiply by 2 and subtract 1-4. 

$1.80, multiply by 2 and subtract 1-5, 

$1.90, multiply by 2 and subtract 1-10. 

$2.00 ( multiply by 2. 



SHORT METHODS. 119 



To find the speed at which one pulley will drive a machine or 
another pulley, multiply the speed (R. P. M.) of the driving shaft, by 
the diameter of the driving pulley and divide by the diameter of the 
driven pulley, or, divide the diameter of the driving pulley by the 
diameter of the driven pulley and multiply the speed of the shaft by the 
remainder. 

To find the size of pulley required to drive a machine at a given 
speed, multiply the speed of the machine by the diameter of the pulley 
on the machine and divide by the speed of the driving shaft. 

The circumference of a pulley is 3.16 limes its diameter. 

Where no tape is available for measuring long belts, the length of 
the belt is twice the distance between the shafts plus 1-2 the circum- 
ference of each pulley. 

The slick (dressed) side of a flat belt should run against the pulley. 




INDEX, 
PART ONE— CUTTING. 

page 

Introductory ,. 

Drafting ' 1 

The Square •' _ 

The Scale ^ 

Coats q 

The System ^ 

The Frame-work "t 

Sinole Breasted Sacks, Sizes 32 to 42 :[« 

Double Breasted Sacks, Sizes 32 to 42 ^« 

Corpulent Forms, Sizes above 42 ^|J 

Boy's Sacks, Sizes 24 to 32 ^- 

Variations for " 

In Shoulder Height |^ 

Front of Scye 'z 

In Drafting Power ^^ 

Method of Grading 'Jt 

Table of Proportions for '^ 

Duck Coats „ 

Covert Coats ° , 

Overcoats, Single and Double Breasted -^^ 

Draftinii" Power for ^ 

Fly Front ^^ 

Sleeves ~ 

Method of Grading °": 

Table of Proportions for j^ 

Collars ;^q 

Automobile Coats (Raglan) -^ 

Sleeve (Raglan) -Jj 

Collars ;^- 

Ygg^g "'^ 

Method of Grading J^ 

Table of Proportions for ' JJ 

Trousers 



Table of Proportions for '^' 

Straight Leg "; J 



Coipulent Forms 

Peii' Tops f] 

Method of Grading ^;* 

Open Welt Seam "J" 

Lay-outs ^^ 

Boys' Pants ^1 

Table of Propoi tions for 4' 

Knickerbockers J^ 

Straigbt Knee Pants -^^ 

Methods of Grading °^ 

Overalls ^" 

Table of Proportions foi' -y^ 

Two Seam Overall j;'- 

One Seam Overall ^*^ 

Miner 's Overall ^]^ 

Double Front and Seat 6^) 

Pocktts '^*^ 



Method of Grading' 84 

Jackets • ^f 

Coat Jumper '. 8-lL 

[Square Jumper 1" 

Method of Grading 8- 

Shirts 54 

Proportions for ■^^ 

Collars and Cuffs -^^^ 

Method of Grading- 80 

Proportions for Grading '^^ 

Drawers ^8 

Leggins J}^ 

Thigh Leggins ^2 

Method of Grading 84 

Grading ^^ 

Table of Proportions for 76 

The Spacer . . . , ^-^ 

Coats and Vests ^8 

Sleeves 80 

Shirts 80 

Jackets 82 

Trousers 84 

Oveialls 84 

Knickerbockers and Knee Pants 82 

Leggins 84 

Economy in Cutting 87 

Trousers 88 

Knickerbockers and Knee Pants ^^ 

Overalls 91 

Shirts 9- 

Alteiation of Patterns 94 

The Fi\e Front Lay for Trousers 88 

The Four Fi ont Lay 90 

The Sti aight Lay 90 

PART TWO— MANUFACTURING. 

Introductory 94 

System ..." 95 

Methods of Handling Work 95 

Team Work 95 

Section Work 9/^ 

Practical Divisions of Work 9/ 

Time Keeping 100 

Uses of the Cutting Ticket 101 

The Time Card . .^ ^ •»<' 

Sto?k Recoi (1 108 

Equipment and InstaUati:in 108 

Individual Motors HO 

Power Loss 110 

Speed of Sliaft HO 

Speed Calculation 119 

Segregation of Various Classes of Work 113 

Practical Arrangement of Machines 112 

Capacity of Special Machines 110 

Brief Points for the Novice 117 

Short Methods of Calculation 118 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

The ang-le of 90 degrees, or, the fourth part of a circle 7 

The Paper Scale 7 

The Frame-work — Diagrams 1, 2, 3 and 4 13 

The Sack Coat — Diagram 5 17 

Corpulant Forms — Diagram 6 21 

Boy 's Sack — Diagram 7 23 

The Overcoat — Diagram 8 25 

The Sleeve— Diagram 9 27 

The Automobile Coat (Raglan)— Diagram 10 29 

The Sleeve (Raglan) — Diagram 11 31 

A Page of Collars — Diagrams 12 to 17 33 

The Vest— Diagram 18 35 

Trousers — Diagrams 19 and 20 39 

Trousers for Corpulent Forms — Diagram 21 43 

Peg Tops — Diagram 22 45 

Knickerbockers — Diagrams 23 and 24 49 

Knee Pants — Diagrams 25 and 26 51 

The ■ Shirt — Diagram 27 55 

Sleeve, Collars and Cuffs — Diagram 28 57 

Accessories — Diagrams 29 to 34 61 

The Overall, Two Seam — Diagrams 35 and 36 63 

The One Seam Overall — Diagram 37 65 

The Jacket — Diagram 38 67 

Drawers — Diagram 39 69 

The Leggin — Diagram 40 71 

The Thigh Leggin — Diagram 41 73 

The iSpacer 77 

The Five Front Lay (Trousers) — Diagram 42 89 

The Four Front Lay (Trousers) — Diagram 43 89' 

The Straight Lay (Trousers) — Diagram 44 89 

The Sack Coat Grade — Diagram 45 79 

The Sleeve Grade — Diagram 46 81 

The Grade for Knickerbockers — Diagrams 47 and 48 83 

Trouser Grade — Diagrams 49 and 50 85 

The Cutting Ticket^ ','/,[ 102 

Stock Cutting Entry 101 

Special Order Entry 101 

Yardage Stub (Face Side) 102 

Yardage Stub (Reverse iSide) ]03 

Bundle Tag 103 

Time Car ds 104 

Stock Card 109 

Floor Plan ] H 

Floor Plan. Small Plant 115 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 



^,.H la 1911 




illliiiiliiiililiiill! 



